Magnificent Jewellery Heads to Bonhams 'London Jewels' Auction

New Bond StreetBonhams presents a magnificent selection of jewellery at the highly anticipated London Jewels sale on 21 September. The 245-lot sale will feature vibrant pieces from notable houses including Cartier, Chaumet and Tiffany & Co. including designs by Jean Schlumberger (1907-1987), Angela Cummings and Elsa Peretti (1940-2021) for Tiffany & Co., Bulgari, Grima, Adler and Van Cleef & Arpels. The sale will showcase an array of exquisitely crafted designs and exceptional gems from Art Deco and heritage collections, including the private estate of renowned British actress Jean Simmons OBE (1929 – 2010), to nature inspired and statement pieces.

Emily Barber, Bonhams Head of Jewellery, UK, commented: "The selection of jewels represents best in class examples of jewellery design from the 19th and 20th centuries. The sumptuous Chaumet necklace, that would also have converted to a tiara, dating from 1900, is a rare survivor from the glamorous Belle Époque era. The three exquisite Art Nouveau gold and gem-set bangles, made by Tiffany & Co. in the 1880s, have been enjoyed by four generations of the same family. We are also delighted to offer for the first-time, jewels from the collections of British art patron Maud Russell, a close friend of 007-creator Ian Fleming, and Hollywood actress Jean Simmons."

Statement necklaces and suites of minimal silhouettes and timeless designs lead the London Jewels sale:

• A rare Chaumet diamond necklace, circa 1900. The chain is designed as a ribbon of old brilliant and rose-cut diamonds, suspending a fringe of drops pavé-set with old brilliant and table-cut, cushion, and pear-shaped diamonds, each with a delicate rose-cut diamond laurel-leaf surmount. Chaumet first conceived the design of this jewel in 1896 when they were commissioned to make Archduchess Maria Dorothea of Austria's tiara for her wedding to Philippe, Duke of Orleans. Such was the designs popularity; several versions were made including the lot on offer. This rare survivor has an estimate of £120,000-150,000.

A selection of prestigious Art Deco jewellery ranging in dates from 1920-1935 will also feature including:

• An Art Deco sapphire and diamond platinum ring, circa 1920. The fancy-cut sugarloaf cabochon Kashmir origin sapphire weighing 7.12 carats is surrounded by a single-cut diamond with shoulders accented by similarly cut diamonds and pear-shaped cabochon sapphires. Offered with an estimate of £60,000-90,000.

• A Cartier Art Deco diamond brooch, circa 1925. Formerly the property of Maud Russell (1891-1982), one of Britain's foremost collectors of French modern art during the 20th century and a popular society hostess known for her infinite generosity to friends including Cecil Beaton, members of the Bloomsbury Group, and Ian Fleming. Her gift of £5000 enabled Fleming to purchase Goldeneye, his Jamaican retreat where he created the world-famous spy, James Bond. The stylish brooch has an openwork plaque design with arrow-shaped terminals and is set throughout with various cut diamonds including old brilliant, old pear, baguette, French and Asscher cut stones. Offered with an estimate of £25,000-35,000.

Van Cleef & Arpels diamond 'Disques' platinum earclips, circa 1935. Each earring has spiralling pavé-set with brilliant and old brilliant-cut diamonds radiating from a border of baguette-cut diamonds. Offered with an estimate of £20,000-30,000.

Nature inspired jewellery can be discovered in the sale with a selection of animals from cats, dogs, birds, turtles to a Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. seahorse, including a Cartier 'Love Bird' brooch and a rare Boucheron 'Dog brooch' both from the estate of British actress Jean Simmons, gifted in the 1940s by her husband British film actor Stewart Granger. Highlights include:

• An exceptional and sought-after Jean Schlumberger (1907-1987) for Tiffany & Co. gem-set seahorse brooch, circa 1960. Recognised as one of the 20th Century's most gifted artists, the partnership with Tiffany & Co. began in 1956, where he went on to create designs which captured the imagination of jewellery lovers. Schlumberger's designs used gemstones to transform nature into objects of beauty, many of which remain unrivalled in the world of jewellery design. The seahorse on offer has circular-cut peridots accented by brilliant-cut diamonds and circular-cut ruby eye. Offered with an estimate of £20,000-30,000.

• A Cartier opal, ruby and diamond 'Love Bird' brooch, circa 1948. The birds have black opal bodies and buff-top calibré-cut ruby feathers, buff-top marquise-cut ruby eyes and single-cut diamond crests, perching on a branch. Offered with an estimate of £30,000-40,000.

• A Boucheron dog brooch, circa 1947, set with ruby bead eyes and engraved nose. Offered with an estimate of £15,000-20,000.

• Two charming and highly unusual garnet and gem-set turtle brooches mounted in gold, circa 1860: one with a central garnet cabochon carved to resemble a shell, set within a surround of garnet cabochons decorated with cushion-shaped and old brilliant-cut diamonds. The turtles head, feet and tail are set with pearls with circular-cut ruby accents. Offered with an estimate of _£6,000-8,000. The other turtle has a carved garnet shell within a surround of cushion-shaped and old brilliant-cut diamonds and green guilloché enamel decoration, the head is accented by step-cut emeralds. Offered with an estimate of £4,000-6,000.

Statement jewellery from oversize earrings and striking rings and bracelets are also on offer including three exceptional and rare Tiffany & Co. Art Nouveau bangles circa 1882-1886.

• A Tiffany & Co., Art Nouveau gold, cushion-shaped sapphire, and old brilliant-cut diamond hinged bangle with scroll motifs, circa 1886. Offered with an estimate of £4,000-6,000.

• A Tiffany & Co., Art Nouveau gold, cushion-shaped ruby, and cat's eye chrysoberyl cabochon bangle, circa 1882. Offered with an estimate of £4,000-6,000.

• Attributed to Tiffany & Co., Art Nouveau emerald and diamond bangle, circa 1884. With cloud motifs, and green enamel Mandarin symbols for fortune, love and giving, accented by rose-cut diamonds, the front inset with three step-cut emeralds between cushion-shaped and old brilliant-cut diamonds. Offered with an estimate of £3,000-5,000.

• A spectacular Bulgari coloured diamond and diamond 'Trombino' ring. The step-cut natural fancy yellow diamond of VVS2 clarity, weighing 4.80 carats is set between graduated baguette-cut diamond shoulders, in a bombé mount, pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds. Offered with an estimate of £50,000-70,000.

• An 18-carat yellow gold, Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co. 'Doughnut' bangle, circa 1981. With a polished finish, the bangle has an evocative oval shape formed of a complete round ring. Offered with an estimate of £12,000-15,000.

• A David Webb jade and diamond dress ring, circa 1980, depicting floral and foliate motifs with brilliant-cut diamond shoulders. Offered with an estimate of £4,000-6,000.

Angela Cummings for Tiffany & Co. 'positive negative' earrings inlaid with black jade and gold spots mounted in 18 carat yellow gold, circa 1980. Offered with an estimate of £1,500-2,000.

5 September 2023


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