A VERY RARE JADEITE, PEARL AND GEMSTONE-INSET HEADDRESS AND NECKLACE SET 19th century (4)

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Lot 52
A VERY RARE JADEITE, PEARL AND GEMSTONE-INSET HEADDRESS AND NECKLACE SET
19th century

Sold for HK$ 940,000 (US$ 120,877) inc. premium
A VERY RARE JADEITE, PEARL AND GEMSTONE-INSET HEADDRESS AND NECKLACE SET
19th century
The pierced metal silk-woven arched frame elaborately decorated with delicate spring-mounted blossoming sprigs embellished with jadeite, pearl, tourmaline, sapphire and other semi-precious materials below a row of tourmaline beads and above a row of miniature jadeite coins, all within a beaded pearl border, each side of the headdress with a temple pendant applied with similar decorations, together with a seed-pearl necklace suspending jadeite and tourmaline pendants.
The headdress 19cm (7 1/2in) wide; the necklace 58cm (22 3/4in) long. (4).

Footnotes

  • 十九世紀 翠玉嵌珍珠雜寶頭面及墜飾

    Published and Illustrated:
    Chen Kuei-miao, the Jade-Carving Art in the Ch'ing Dynasty, Taipei, 1990, p.174
    Chen Kang-shuen, National Museum of History Newsletter, Taipei, 1991, p.3
    Gildo Fossati, The World of Jade: Great Masterpieces of Chinese Art, Italy, 1992, p.198
    Terese Battesti and Henri-Jean Schubnel, Jades Impériaux, Paris, 1993, p.28, no.89


    Exhibited:
    South African Cultural History Museum, Chinese Jade Exhibition, Cape Town, 1991, p.9
    Transvaal Museum, Chinese Jade Exhibition, Pretoria, 1991, no.9
    National Museum of History, Exhbition of Ch'ing Dynasty Carved Jade, Taipei, 1992, p.1
    The Museum of Far Eastern Antiquities, Jade from the Qing-dynasty, Stockholm, 1993
    Muséum National D'histoire Naturelle, Jades Impériaux, Paris, 1993, no.89
    Museum Reich der Kristalle, Jade aus der Qing-Dynastie, Munich, 1993,

    出版及著錄:
    陳癸淼,《清代玉雕藝術》,台北,1990年,頁174
    陳康順,《國立歷史博物館館訊》,台北,1991年,頁3
    G. Fossati,《The World of Jade: Great Masterpieces of Chinese Art》,意大利,1992年,頁198
    法國自然歷史博物館,《Jades Impériaux》,巴黎,1993年,頁28,編號89

    展覽:
    南非國立文化歷史博物館,《中國玉器展覽》,開普敦,1991年,頁9
    國立自然歷史博物館,《中國玉器展》,普利陀利亞,1991,頁9
    國立歷史博物館,《清代玉雕藝術展》,台北,1992年,頁1
    遠東古代藝術博物館,《清代玉器展覽》,斯德哥爾摩,1993年
    國家自然歷史博物館,《御製玉雕展》,巴黎,1993年,編號89
    帝國礦物博物館,《清代玉器》,慕尼黑,1993年

    The richly adorned headdress and temple pendants belong to a group of delicately crafted ornaments made for further decoration of the Imperial headdress known as dianzi. When worn, a dianzi can be further decorated by insertion of delicate ornaments inlaid with kingfisher feathers, jadeite carvings and other precious materials.

    The arched form of the present lot is very similar to two gold headdress ornaments, one dated to the Jiaqing period and another to the Qianlong period, both in the Palace Museum, Beijing. They are known as tiaotou and are used as ornaments attached to the forehead of a dianzi headdress, see Jewellery and Accessories of The Royal Consorts of Ching Dynasty, Hong Kong, 1992, nos.198 and 199.

    Jadeites of bright emerald green colour but cut into slices of decorative ornaments are known as guangpian, which literally means 'Guangdong slice', since such technique was likely originated in the Guangdong region. There are a number of headdress ornaments from the Imperial collections with decorated with guangpian jadeite carvings, see a related gold headdress ornament with kingfisher feather inset with pearls, semiprecious stones and jadeite, Qing dynasty, in the National Palace Museum, Taipei, illustrated in A garland of Treasures: Masterpieces of Precious Crafts in the Museum Collection, Taipei, 2014, pl.II-24; and another related jadeite headdress inlaid with pears, tourmaline and sapphire, in the National Palace Museum, Taipei (acc. no.Z.Y.000013). See also four similarly decorated gilt-silver hairpins in the Palace Museum, Beijing, all inlaid with guangpian-style jadeites and other precious stones, Qing dynasty, illustrated in Jewellery and Accessories of The Royal Consorts of Ching Dynasty, Hong Kong, 1992, nos.131-134.

    頭面以上百片翠玉及珍珠寶石鑲嵌,並以細鐵絲串聯而成。頭面主體呈弧形,飾翠玉朵花,並以珍珠、碧璽、寶石相襯,頭面前沿處飾一條翠玉錢幣紋,整個頭面外以珍珠圍繞一周。頭面主體兩端配同樣裝飾手法的鬢飾各一,碧璽為花,翠玉為葉,並嵌以珍珠點綴,下垂四條分別以珍珠,翠玉和碧璽連珠而成的瓔珞。頭面配以項鏈墜飾,項鏈以絲絨串珍珠及碧璽、翡翠吊墜而成。

    清代宮廷后妃的首飾由廣儲司和養心殿造辦處的撒花作、纍絲作、玉作、牙作、鑲嵌作、琺瑯作等處承做。頭面是清代吉慶場合后妃穿著吉服時頭上所帶鈿子的裝飾物,清代滿族婦女上至皇后,下至妃子穿著禮服袍褂時流行以鈿子代替吉服冠,鈿子上的各式珠寶飾件也可稱為鈿花或挑頭,此件頭面形制與挑頭相近。「鈿」不僅在《大明會典》中就有如「珠寶鈿」、「翠鈿」等記載,最早在漢代已經有這個器名,如《說文解字》:「鈿,金華也。」又如《六書故》記載:「金華為飾,田田然」。華通「花」,而首飾主要用金製成,故稱為「鈿」。參看北京故宮博物院藏清乾隆及清嘉慶金鑲珠九蝠挑頭各一件,著錄於《故宮博物院藏清代后妃首飾》,香港,1992年,編號198及199,其形制及裝飾功用與本拍品類似。

    此件頭面所嵌翠玉呈薄片狀,其顏色濃艷,切片薄而勻,精而細,這種翡翠薄片雕刻是廣東寶石雕刻行的代表作,又稱為「廣片」,這種加工方法巧妙的應用了翡翠厚薄與顏色、透明度的關係。清宮舊藏中就有大量採用「廣片」鑲嵌而成的首飾,如台北故宮博物院藏一件清代金點翠嵌珠寶翠玉福壽萬年鈿花,著錄於,《集瓊藻 : 院藏珍玩精華展 》,台北,2014年,圖II-24,以及一件) 清翠玉嵌珠寶鈿花(博物館編號:故-雜-003212),其廣片紋飾排列與本拍品相似。北京故宮博物院藏有四件清代銀鍍金嵌翠玉寶石花簪,亦是採用廣片、珍珠及其他寶石鑲嵌而成,見《故宮博物院藏清代后妃首飾》,香港,1992年,編號131及134。
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A VERY RARE JADEITE, PEARL AND GEMSTONE-INSET HEADDRESS AND NECKLACE SET 19th century (4)
A VERY RARE JADEITE, PEARL AND GEMSTONE-INSET HEADDRESS AND NECKLACE SET 19th century (4)
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