AN IMPORTANT 'TUTTI FRUTTI' BRACELET, CARTIER

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Lot 647
AN IMPORTANT 'TUTTI FRUTTI' BRACELET,
CARTIER

Sold for HK$ 2,877,500 (US$ 371,209) inc. premium
AN IMPORTANT 'TUTTI FRUTTI' BRACELET, CARTIER
Set with a carved emerald, weighing 93.34 carats, decorated with square sugarloaf cabochon sapphires, in a round brilliant and square-cut diamond frame, to the carved ruby and emerald bead and carved sapphire leaf 'Tutti Frutti' cluster extending five strands of carved emeralds and rubies, with diamond-set rondelle spacers and carved sapphire leaf detail; signed Cartier, no. EAS626, with French assay and maker's marks, accompanied by signed case; also accompanied by a Cartier box which includes documentation, drawings and a gemological report; mounted in platinum and 18k white gold; length 19cm

Footnotes

  • Accompanied by Carat Gem Lab report #CGL13224, dated 14 December 2016, stating that the emerald is of Afghani origin and has indications of oil.

    For further information including original purchase documents and colour sketches, please refer to the department.

    彩色寶石'Tutti Frutti'手鍊,卡地亞
    阿富汗祖母綠重93.34克拉,附Carat Gem Lab證書,設計繪圖,購買檔案及原裝盒
    如欲細閱相關文件,請與珠寶部聯繫


    Instantly recognizable, Cartier Tutti Frutti jewels are some of the most sought after in the world. Combining glamour and exoticism in a riot of color, the history of these rare jewels began more than a century ago.

    Cartier started designing jewels inspired by India as early as 1901 when Queen Alexandra of England commissioned a necklace to be worn with her elaborately embroidered Indian gowns. In 1911, Jacques Cartier went to India for the Delhi Durbar, a two-week spectacle celebrating the coronation of George V (Alexandra's son) as Emperor of India. Jacques went to India to find clients and came back with carved emeralds and other gems, including some purchased from the maharajas of Patiala and Kapurthala. He shared these stones with the Paris workshops where they inspired the creative genius of Louis Cartier and designer Charles Jacqueau.

    The brilliant Jacqueau was one of the originators of the Art Deco movement. He and Louis abandoned the delicate swags and festoons of earlier decades and introduced bold color and motifs from ancient cultures. His notebooks are full of Chinese temples, Egyptian tombs, and Persian carpets, which were all eventually translated into fantastical jewelry. When the carved Indian stones came onto his desk, he designed light, airy platinum frames that were minimal and geometric to hold the colorful carved stones.

    In the 1920s, while Indian princes were coming to Cartier to have their family pieces redesigned, Europeans and Americans fell in love with Cartier's jewelry inspired by Indian motifs. Jacqueau designed a series of carved sapphire and emerald necklaces Louis called "peacock." Centering massive emeralds carved with foliate patterns, these pieces were made for only the very best clients including J.P. Morgan, Baron Édouard de Rothschild, and The Aga Khan.

    But it was the bracelets registered in the Cartier books as "foliage" that has captured and kept the attention of collectors for a century. Featuring a palette of carved emeralds, rubies, and sapphires, what has come to be known as Tutti Frutti captured the exuberance and delight of the 1920s and unique examples are still created by Cartier High Jewelry today. Taking master artisans hundreds of hours, they are made with the utmost care and remarkable beauty and flexibility.

    This Tutti Frutti bracelet borrows from the traditions of the past, with the central carved foliate emerald and the diamond and sapphire frame a reference to the famous peacock necklaces. The extraordinary graduated band displays the carved rubies, emeralds, and sapphires—both leaves and fluted balls—that are emblematic of the great Tutti Frutti designs.

    Courtesy of Sarah Davis

    卡地亞(Cartier)的水果錦囊Tutti Frutti系列起源於一百多年前,可說是近代珠寶史上最受歡迎的珠寶系列之一,其結合繽紛色彩及異國風情的風格令人一見難忘。

    早於1901年,卡地亞(Cartier)已設計源於印度色彩的珠寶。當時的英國女王亞歷山德拉(Alexandra)委託訂造一條項鏈,用以配襯她的精巧刺繡印度禮服。於1911年,雅克.卡地亞(Jacques Cartier)受邀前往印度德里.杜巴(Delhi Durbar)參加喬治五世(亞歷山德拉兒子)成為印度國王的嘉勉典禮,並借此契機在印度尋找客戶,帶回雕刻的祖母綠和其他寶石,當中包括從帕蒂亞拉(Patiala) 和卡普薩拉(Kapurthala)君主購買的寶石。他在巴黎的工作坊中分享了這些收穫,啟發了路易斯.卡地亞(Louis Cartier) 和設計師查爾斯.雅克(Charles Jacqueau) 的創作靈感。

    雅克(Jacqueau)和路易斯摒棄了過往精緻垂掛和花綵裝飾設計,引入了古代文化的大膽色彩和主題,其後更成為了裝飾藝術風格的基石。他的筆記簿上滿載中國寺廟, 埃及古墓和波斯地毯的圖案,這些構思最後被演繹為非凡的珠寶。他設計了輕巧而極細緻的鉑金手鏈框架,拼湊出幾何形狀細節,用以鑲嵌他工作枱上充滿印度彩色的雕刻寶石。

    在1920年代,卡地亞(Cartier)接受印度王子的委托,重新設計他的家族珠寶,當時歐美客人對以印度主題為靈感的卡地亞珠寶趨之若鶩。雅克(Jacqueau)設計了一系列運用雕刻藍寶石和祖母綠的項鍊,路易斯(Louis)稱此系列為"孔雀"。這些作品以大型刻有葉狀圖案的祖母綠寶石為主調,而且只為最重要的客戶群定制,包括摩根大通 (J.P. Morgan),愛德華.羅斯柴爾德男爵(Baron Édouard de Rothschild)和阿迦汗(The Aga Khan) 。

    在卡地亞 (Cartier) 書中記錄為"葉子(foliage)"的手鏈,一個世紀以來一直吸引着無數收藏家。水果錦囊 (Tutti Frutti) 採用雕刻的祖母綠,紅寶石和藍寶石,尤如調色版的繽紛顏色,充分表現出1920年代的繁榮與喜悅。這獨特的設計仍保留在卡地亞現今的高級珠寶上,這些非凡美麗而充滿動感的珠寶,需要最精湛的工匠花上數百個小時才能完成製作。

    這次呈獻的手鏈參照了昔日水果錦囊(Tutti Frutti) 的傳統設計,以上世紀著名孔雀項鍊的精髓為藍本,運用刻有葉狀圖案的巨型祖母綠為主石;而雕刻成葉子和條紋珠子的紅寶石,祖母綠及藍寶石,更突顯水果錦囊(Tutti Frutti)標誌性的設計。
Contacts
AN IMPORTANT 'TUTTI FRUTTI' BRACELET, CARTIER
AN IMPORTANT 'TUTTI FRUTTI' BRACELET, CARTIER
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