An art moderne diamond brooch, French
Lot 34
An art moderne diamond brooch, French
circa 1935
US$ 30,000 - 50,000
£ 24,000 - 40,000

Amended

Fine Jewellery

20 Jun 2016, 13:00 EDT

New York

Lot Details
An art moderne diamond brooch, French An art moderne diamond brooch, French
An art moderne diamond brooch, French circa 1935
of leaf design, set throughout with old European-cut diamonds; with French assay marks; estimated total diamond weight: 14.00 carats; mounted in platinum and 18k white gold; length: 4in.

Footnotes

  • The House of Boivin was known for producing unique and avante-guard jewelry. In part these creations were the result of a successful relationship between Madame Boivin, who ran the business with an iron hand in a velvet glove and was responsible for taking the orders, skillful and sensitive artist Juliette Moutard, and the workshop that transformed the idea and sketch into a three dimensional jewel.

    Following completion, Madame Boivin would provide the final okay, or ask that the workshop rework the design. Madame Boivin demanded the outcome be perfect to her specifications. Special orders were seldom accepted, most were commissioned orders by the type of article needed – a brooch, pair of earrings or bracelet, for example. Many of the finished jewelry was delivered to their clients without signature.

    After receiving precise orders, Juliette Moutard would create drawings based upon a theme or a group of colored stones. These spontaneous sketches were usually done in actual size including stone details. Technically gifted, Mademoiselle Moutard drew both naturalistic and abstract designs, pave set leaves were favored with a polished stem. Both Suzanne Belperron, who left the house of Boivin in 1931, and her successor, Juliette Moutard, used large, three dimension form in their foliate jewelry.

    The size and design of this brooch relate to many similar pieces created under the directorship Boivin by either Moutard or Belperron. This jewel captures natures movement in the slight curve of the leaf and the textured surface created by chunky old mine diamonds; innovative and free from the constraints of the then popular flat and geometric characteristics of art deco jewelry in the 1930's. This brooch belonged to a confident woman who recognized the genius of Madame Boivin, and preferred to wear simple, elegant and bold sculptural jewelry.

Saleroom notices

  • Please note that the estimate should read $10,000-15,000
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