Heuer. A very rare stainless steel manual wind chronograph wristwatch with Tidal indication 'Seafarer', Ref:2443, Mark II, retailed by Abercrombie and Fitch, Circa 1960

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Lot 190
Heuer. A very rare stainless steel manual wind chronograph wristwatch with Tidal indication
'Seafarer', Ref:2443, Mark II, retailed by Abercrombie and Fitch, Circa 1960

Sold for £ 5,000 (US$ 6,372) inc. premium
Heuer. A very rare stainless steel manual wind chronograph wristwatch with Tidal indication
'Seafarer', Ref:2443, Mark II, retailed by Abercrombie and Fitch, Circa 1960
17-jewel Cal.Valjoux 721 rhodium-plated movement with straight line lever escapement, mono-metallic balance, shock-absorber, self-compensating flat balance spring, signed Heuer-Leonidas 'creamy' silvered dial signed Abercrombie and Fitch Co, with triangle or dot hour indexes and Arabic 11, 12, 1, 7 and 5, outer printed running seconds, 12 hour recording at 6, auxiliary green and blue dials for the tide indication, and blue and white sector dial for 30 minute recording, luminous Dauphine hands, and steel chronograph seconds hand, polished steel case with angular down turned lugs, screw on angled case back, round push buttons flanking the crown, 'tide setting button' at 9 (lacking), later fitted leather strap, case and movement signed Abercrombie and Fitch & Co
38mm.

Footnotes

  • Abercrombie & Fitch, now a well known retail giant was founded in the late 19th century and quickly became synonymous with all forms of outdoor pursuits and the appropriate clothing. They launched a series of suitable sturdy watches to compliment their products. Heuer began working with the brand in the late 1940's.

    Initially the brand came up with the rather niche, 'Solunar watch, 'whereby sportsmen could work out the optimal times of the month and the best times of day to hunt and fish, according to the exact positions of the sun and the moon. Ultimately, whilst an interesting concept, the resulting watch was commercially a flop, and Heuer had to think if another design. This lead them to the equally colourful' Seafarer' whereby the wearer could quite easily keep track of tidal times. Allegedly it was the buyer for Abercrombie and Fitch, Walter Haynes, that had the idea of this particular chronograph. This quite sophisticated watch indicates both high and low tides. The name Mareograph ( ie. Oceanographer) was adopted in Europe and Seafarer in the USA. Heuer went on to produce ten versions of the Seafarer.

    The wearer has to just set the 'solar time' as one would with a regular wristwatch, The tide or lunar dial was then set using local tide tables and using the left side pusher to advance the tide dial until the tide markers point to the appropriate times. The four arrows on the tide dial would show four tides for the day,and at midnight would automatically advance, to indicate the four tide times for the following day.

    With many thanks to Jeff Stein and 'On the Dash'

Saleroom notices

  • Please note that the quickset button is in the band and not 'lacking' as stated in the cataloguing.
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