A Jemez embroidered shirt

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Lot 4057
A Jemez embroidered shirt
size approximately 52 x 52in

Sold for US$ 105,750 inc. premium
A Jemez embroidered shirt
Woven on a cotton foundation, with separately attached arms, embroidered at each end of the three panels and across the center about the open neck hole, worked in raincloud motifs, khiva step motifs, double-hooked diamonds and angular blossoms, with geometric complements, the open center displaying a set of five hooked crosses, small tassels where the arms join the body, in cochineal dyed red, black handspun wool and undyed handspun cotton yarns, small areas of restoration.
size approximately 52 x 52in

Footnotes

  • Ex-Santa Barbara Museum of Art, Santa Barbara, California.

    Both the lower border and the small crosses at work in this Jemez shirt are illustrated in Mera, Plate XIII the bottom drawing. Mera made his drawings of the lower border and the small crosses during the 1940s, when this shirt was in the collection of the Santa Barbara Museum of Art.

    See Conn and Wheat, page 20, Fig. 7, for A Man’s Embroidered Shirt, Jemez Pueblo, circa 1920, in the Alfred I. Barton Collection at the Lowe Art Museum in Coral Gables, Florida. The Jemez shirt illustrated in Conn and Wheat is the only Jemez shirt in the Barton Collection.

    See Kent, Plate 16, for A Man’s Embroidered Shirt, Jemez Pueblo, circa 1920, woven from commercial yarns dyed with synthetic dyes. The Jemez shirt illustrated in Kent is in the collection of the School of American Research in Santa Fe, New Mexico, (#SAR T12) and is the only Jemez shirt in that collection.

    See Whitaker, page 390, for A Man’s Embroidered Shirt, Jemez Pueblo, circa 1870, woven from commercial yarns dyed with synthetic dyes. The Jemez shirt illustrated in Whitaker is in the collection of the Southwest Museum in Pasadena, California (#535.G608), and is the only Jemez shirt in that collection.

    See Sturtevant, page 428, Fig. 10, and Mera, Plate XII, for A Man’s Embroidered Shirt, Jemez Pueblo, collected in 1916. The Jemez shirt illustrated in Sturtevant is in the collection of the Denver Art Museum in Denver, Colorado (#RJ-3).

    "Due to their beauty and to their resemblance to embroidered Acoma mantas, Pueblo shirts have always been considered an important category of Pueblo textile." -J.S.
A Jemez embroidered shirt
A Jemez embroidered shirt
A Jemez embroidered shirt
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