DANIEL ROTH | ELLIPSOCURVEX, RÉGULATEUR À TOURBILLON, REF.198.L.40, A LIMITED EDITION YELLOW GOLD TOURBILLON WRISTWATCH, CIRCA 2003

Footnotes

Daniel Roth, the eponymous Swiss watchmaker who founded his brand in 1988 (later acquired by Bulgari in 2000), is celebrated for blending classical horology with innovative complications. His watches often feature a distinctive elliptical case inspired by 18th-century pocket watches, emphasizing elegance and technical sophistication. The Reference 198.L.40 is a prime example from the brand's Régulateur à Tourbillon series, a limited edition piece that showcases Roth's mastery in high complications. The timepiece boasts a stunning yellow gold case with the signature "double ellipse" shape, curved lugs and a rounded rectangular profile for ergonomic comfort. The silvered guilloché dial features a standard layout, with the exposed tourbillon the main highlight visible at 6 o'clock. Roman numerals and blued steel hands add a vintage touch, while the exhibition case back reveals the intricate mechanics.

Powered by the hand-wound Caliber DR 650, a manually wound tourbillon movement with 19 jewels, it beats at 21,600 vph and offers a 48-hour power reserve. The one-minute tourbillon at 6 o'clock combats gravity for enhanced accuracy, finished with hand-engraved bridges and perlage decoration. Originally released in the early 2000s, this reference is highly sought after on the secondary market. Limited to just 15 pieces, the Ref. 198.L.40 appeals to aficionados who value historical significance, as it represents Daniel Roth's independent era before the Bulgari integration. If you're drawn to refined complications and unique aesthetics, this tourbillon regulator is a horological gem that bridges tradition and innovation.