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Lot 73
A purplish-blue-ground damask 'double gourd' informal overcoat with peacock feather threads, ao Late Qing dynasty
2 April 2025, 16:00 AEDT
SydneySold for AU$10,455 inc. premium
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A purplish-blue-ground damask 'double gourd' informal overcoat with peacock feather threads, ao
Late Qing dynasty
for a Han woman, 113.0cm long, 127.0cm wide
for a Han woman, 113.0cm long, 127.0cm wide
Footnotes
Provenance:
Linda Wrigglesworth, London, 17 Aug 1983 (Receipt)
晚清 藕荷紫暗花葫蘆雙錢紋綢廣袖單襖 金雀銹鳳穿牡丹雲頭如意縧邊 牙白地人物山水紋挽袖
傳承：
倫敦 Linda Wrigglesworth，1983年8月17日（收據）
The phoenix and peony pattern in the collar and hem in this lot is done with couched peacock feather threads. To form these threads, the filaments of peacock feathers are sliced in half along their length and wound round a core thread of silk or cotton. This technique is used in brocades, kesi, and embroidery such as the current lot. The iridescence from the peacock feathers gives the textiles an added lustre.
Due to the labour intensity of the production process and the fragility of the end result, surviving examples are rare. Probably the most associated pieces are the group of Wanli period festival badges, where the dragon scales in these badges are decorated with such threads, see the Metropolitan Museum (acc.no.36.65.32, and acc.no.1972.36), as well as a Jiaqing period uncut dragon robe fabric where the feather threads are used to cover the entire ground, see Palace Museum (acc.no.故00028368).
本襖的縧邊中鳳及牡丹紋樣，運用雀金、平金工藝。雀金以絲線為線芯、外纏孔雀羽撚成的線。此種綫極珍貴，明清時多用於繡製皇帝或王公貴族袍服上的雲龍紋。《紅樓夢》第五十二回《勇晴雯病補雀金裘》中雀金裘，用的也是這種工藝。由於製作耗時費工，成品易損，存世較少，至今各大博物館私人藏品中知名作品有萬曆時期節日補，見紐約大都會博物館館藏 acc.no.36.65.32，及 acc.no.1972.36，及皇家龍袍等，見故宮博物院藏醬色綢滿繡孔雀羽地金蟒紋袍料 acc.no.故00028368。