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A midnight-blue gauze formal summer Court robe in counted stitches and a collar, chaofu and piling Jiaqing to Daoguang period, 1820 to 1850 image 1

A midnight-blue gauze formal summer Court robe in counted stitches and a collar, chaofu and piling Jiaqing to Daoguang period, 1820 to 1850 image 2

Lot 7

A midnight-blue gauze formal summer Court robe in counted stitches and a collar, chaofu and piling
Jiaqing to Daoguang period, 1820 to 1850

The Cheong Family Collection: The Imperial Wardrobe and Official Ware

2 April 2025, 16:00 AEDT

Sydney

Sold for AU$67,650 inc. premium

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A midnight-blue gauze formal summer Court robe in counted stitches and a collar, chaofu and piling

Jiaqing to Daoguang period, 1820 to 1850
the robe 143.0cm long, 211.0cm wide, the collar 70.0cm long

Footnotes

Provenance:
(the chaofu) Linda Wrigglesworth, London, 6 Oct 1981 (receipt)
(the collar) Linda Wrigglesworth, London, 15 Jun 1981 (receipt)

清嘉慶至道光石青納紗打籽龍紋夏朝袍及披領

傳承：
（朝服）倫敦 Linda Wrigglesworth，1981年10月6日（收據）
（披領）倫敦 Linda Wrigglesworth，1981年6月15日（收據）

本件是清代高階皇室女眷的夏朝服，用於在春、夏兩季參加重要典禮或祭祀時穿著。相比于吉服，朝服相對更難界定品階。《皇朝禮器圖式》中記錄：「固倫公主冠服，制如親王福晉；和碩公主朝冠、金約，如親王世子福晉，餘與固倫公主制同。」在缺少根據顔色對品階的參考前提下，較難分辨這件朝服主人的具體身份。因四品以下女性朝服不分冬夏制度，只有單、夾、棉、皮之分，可以初步判斷這件薄紗質地夏朝服是屬於三品以上。加之團龍紋飾為五爪，即高階皇室女眷所屬。

具體來説，本件屬於完整朝服中的朝袍部分。清代的女性朝袍有六種形制，分爲太后、皇后和高級嬪妃所用的五種，以及宗女命婦等所用的一種。六種分別是冬甲式、冬乙式、冬丙式、夏甲式、夏乙式和宗女命婦的單式。夏朝袍甲款式與冬朝袍款式乙相同，夏朝袍乙款式與冬朝袍款式丙相同。根據《皇朝禮器圖式》中「卷六·冠服三」記載，該夏朝服與冬乙式款式相同，因此為夏甲式。除了著裝款式有嚴格規定，《大清會典》亦明確記載不同身份不同款式袍服的的穿著時間，夏朝服一般於立夏后始服。

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