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Lot 5

A midnight-blue-ground embroidered 'lantern' roundel
18th century

The Cheong Family Collection: The Imperial Wardrobe and Official Ware

2 April 2025, 16:00 AEDT

Sydney

Sold for AU$6,765 inc. premium

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Yvett Klein

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A midnight-blue-ground embroidered 'lantern' roundel

18th century
probably from a festival gown for an Imperial noblewoman, 23.5cm diam.

Footnotes

清十八世紀深藍緞地「福喜壽」燈景圓補

燈景紋於織錦，上可追溯宋遼。至明清，元宵觀燈的習俗尤甚，燈籠的種類和造型呈現出豐富的變化，燈景紋也被更廣氾地應用。《明宮史》中記載，「内臣宮眷皆穿燈景補子蟒衣，燈市至十六日更盛，天下繁華，咸萃於此」（參閲本場拍賣1號拍品「明萬曆明黄地刺繡龍紋燈景圓補」）。清襲明俗，燈籠出現了更多材質和形狀的使用，例如銅框玻璃彩繪圓式挂燈、畫琺琅玻璃挂燈等。因此，燈籠紋的燈籠主體如本件拍品所示，也呈現出梅花形、荷花形、銀錠形、金錠形、如意頭形、八角形等。

《蘇州織造局志》卷七「緞疋」記宮中所用各類應景袍料，其中有「三潤色濶滿裝燈景袍一件」，后以小字注云「燈景花樣」，此元宵所用。類似吉服，美國波士頓美術館藏有綠色緙絲八團燈籠補吉服袍子，見acc.no.1987.354，此類式樣吉服袍，不見于清代制度，當為宮眷元宵時節穿用。另故宮博物院藏石青緙絲八團慶壽燈籠紋棉褂，acc.no.故00042781，亦是此類應景吉服。

本件拍品為乾嘉時期節日補，主體為清宮挂燈，由寶蓋、燈身和穗幃組成。寶蓋，即宮燈上的燈帽，本枚是毗盧帽式寶蓋及蓮花座；燈身為八角形，滿地打籽，間以平金勾勒輪廓、並書「福、壽、喜」；穗帷由燈穗和帘帷組成。左右及下方「懸挂」三枚小型多層挂燈，喜慶之氣油然而生。
這枚緞地補通身采用了繁複針法，除了燈身主體綿密的打籽、平金輪廓外，另可見主燈寶蓋上以盤綫固定的櫻花花瓣，雖與六角錦地用色相同，卻應立體效果形成反差。錦地用平針外，依稀可見網銹。兩朵櫻花用綫細若游絲，用色用針漸變自然稠密，惟妙惟肖。蓮花寶座蓮瓣水路窄若髮絲，自然而毫無機械之感。

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