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An orange-ground silk embroidered informal robe, chenyi Guangxu period, circa 1880 image 1

Lot 26

An orange-ground silk embroidered informal robe, chenyi
Guangxu period, circa 1880

The Cheong Family Collection: The Imperial Wardrobe and Official Ware

2 April 2025, 16:00 AEDT

Sydney

Sold for AU$17,220 inc. premium

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Yvett Klein

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Yvett.Klein@bonhams.com

An orange-ground silk embroidered informal robe, chenyi

Guangxu period, circa 1880
probably worn by a lady in waiting to the Empress Cixi, 140.0cm long, 142.0cm wide

Footnotes

Provenance:
Linda Wrigglesworth, London, 14 Dec 1988 (receipt)

清光緒橘地江綢牡丹木蘭彩蝶紋襯衣

傳承：
倫敦 London，1988年12月14日（收據）

Compare the encroaching satin stitches in the embroidery of the peony petals and leaves in this gown with that of the Cixi's 'phoenix' gown, lot 23, in this sale. This technique is to accentuate the shading of the flowers. Unlike the Cixi gown where the flowers are outlined with couched gold threads, voiding is used in this robe with interspersed golden knots to mimic either stamen or dew. The deduction of this gown probably being worn by a lady in waiting in Cixi's Court is most likely made due to the similarity in decorative motif and techniques between these robes.

比較此襯衣中牡丹花瓣與葉的平綉中，漸進式的槍針技法與拍品23號慈禧的鳳紋襯衣中相應的工藝。此技法用於強調花葉的漸層色彩。與慈禧襯衣上以盤金線勾勒花朵輪廓不同，此袍則運用了「水路」技法，並點綴以金色打籽，以模仿花蕊或露珠。由於此袍的裝飾圖案與技法與慈禧襯衣極其相似卻不及其富麗堂皇，因此推測其可能曾由慈禧身旁女眷所穿。

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