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A light-brown-ground brocade semi formal dragon robe, mangpao First half of 18th century image 1

Lot 15

A light-brown-ground brocade semi formal dragon robe, mangpao
First half of 18th century

The Cheong Family Collection: The Imperial Wardrobe and Official Ware

2 April 2025, 16:00 AEDT

Sydney

Sold for AU$36,900 inc. premium

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A light-brown-ground brocade semi formal dragon robe, mangpao

First half of 18th century
140.0cm high, 205.0cm wide

Footnotes

Provenance:
Linda Wrigglesworth, London, 22 Nov 1982 (Invoice)

十八世紀上半葉香色雲錦四爪八蟒吉服

傳承：
Linda Wrigglesworth, 倫敦，1982年11月22日（賬單）

According to the Illustrated Regulations for Ceremonial Paraphernalia of the Imperial Dynasty, the fourth rank administrative officials are to wear gown with eight four-claw dragon, mang. The usually assigned colour of the gown is blue or dark indigo, which makes the colour of the current gown peculiar. According to John E. Vollmer, outside Court related activities, greater flexibility, hence creativity, are enjoyed when it comes to the colour of these gowns.
Compare with another gown dated to the Yongzheng period with similar design of the lishui, waves and mountains at the hem, and the interspersed five-colour clouds, see Judith Rutherford and Jackie Menzies, Celestial Silks: Chinese Religious & Court Textiles: Chinese Religious and Court Textiles, AGNSW, Sydney: 2004, p.65, pl.31. A relatively shorter band of lishui with thicker band of waves, and larger and more colourful clouds are all characteristic of an 18th century dragon robe.

根據《皇朝禮器圖式》記載，「文四品，蟒袍通繡四爪八蟒」，即清代四品文官可著綉有八團四爪龍的蟒袍。通常，這類蟒袍為藍色或石青色，因此本件蟒袍的顏色顯得較為特殊。根據 John E. Vollmer 的研究，除與宮廷活動相關的場合外，這些蟒袍的顏色設計更具靈活性，因此也更具創造性。
對比另一件雍正年間的蟒袍，其下擺的八寶立水紋平水紋，以及分布的五彩雲蝠具有相似設計。詳見Judith Rutherford 與 Jackie Menzies， Celestial Silks: Chinese Religious & Court Textiles，新南威爾士藝術館，悉尼，2004年，第65頁，圖版31。18世紀蟒袍的特徵包括相對較短的八寶立水紋、更寬的海水紋，以及更大且顏色更加鮮豔的雲紋，這些特徵在該時期龍袍蟒袍中尤為明顯。

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