
Gemma Radburn-Todd
Cataloguer
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Sold for £28,160 inc. premium
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Cataloguer

Co-Head of Department UK

Co-Head of Department UK

Senior Specialist

Senior Specialist
The financial crisis of The Great Depression inspired a vogue for semi-precious stones including amethysts, aquamarines, peridots and citrines. These colourful stones could be found in much larger quantities than their more valuable and traditional counterparts and they were not just reserved for smaller jewels such as earrings and brooches but showcased in suites and tiaras. Cartier London produced notable head ornaments set with citrines and topaz in 1928, 1930 and 1937 - marking a significant shift from the white jewellery of the Belle Époque era to the bigger, brighter and more colourful creations of the high Art Deco period. Cartier London also produced an aquamarine tiara in 1937 - the year of George VI's coronation when the firm received no fewer than twenty-seven orders for tiaras. The central motifs often converted to clip brooches. See Rudoe, J. Cartier 1900-1939, London, 1997, p.261.ill.fig.81 and pp.282-283, ill.fig.226 and Molesworth, H. Cartier, London, 2025, pp.91-92 and ill.p.131, fig.80.