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George Hoyningen-Huene (1900-1968)
Platinum palladium print; Hoyningen-Huene © Horst dry stamp lower right, titled, annotated, and signed 'From the Collection of Horst' in pencil on the verso.
7 13/16 x 9 15/16 in. (19.8 x 25.3 cm)
sheet 11 x 14 in. (27.9 x 35.6 cm)
George Hoyningen-Huene was a pioneer in the field of fashion photography. He was strongly influenced by Classical Greek sculpture and the black-and-white photographs he produced exude elegance and style. Born in St. Petersburg, his family fled their homeland during the Russian Revolution. Huene settled in Paris in the 1920s and began working in the fashion industry as a draftsperson. A collaboration on a series of fashion photographs with the surrealist artist Man Ray brought him to the attention of Parisian fashion world and he quickly rose in the ranks. By 1925, Huene was the chief photographer for French Vogue, where he created many of his most memorable photographs.
During his tenure Huene first met Horst P. Horst, who modeled for him, and quickly became his assistant, mentee, collaborator, and lover. Horst is portrayed in Huene's iconic photograph The Divers and is the statuesque figure in this photograph. In 1935, when Huene departed Paris for New York and began shooting for Harper's Bazaar, it was Horst who would take over his role as chief photographer at French Vogue.
After his passing in 1968, Horst inherited Huene's estate and began supervising the printing of photographs from across his career. Huene was a master of lighting, qualities which are further extenuated by the richness and luminosity of the platinum prints produced during this period.