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SCHLUMBERGER FOR TIFFANY & CO: GEM-SET SALAMANDER BROOCH, CIRCA 1960 image 1

Lot 86

SCHLUMBERGER FOR TIFFANY & CO: GEM-SET SALAMANDER BROOCH, CIRCA 1960

London Jewels

1 December 2022, 11:00 GMT

London, New Bond Street

£10,000 - £15,000

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Kate Flitcroft

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Jennifer Tonkin

Co-Head of Department UK

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Jennifer.Tonkin@bonhams.com

Charlotte Glyde

Specialist Consultant

C.Glyde.Consultant@bonhams.com

SCHLUMBERGER FOR TIFFANY & CO: GEM-SET SALAMANDER BROOCH, CIRCA 1960

The stylised salamander with textured decoration, set with step-cut tourmalines and turquoise eyes, accented with brilliant-cut diamonds to the claws, signed Schlumberger Studios and Tiffany & Co, length 6.0cm

Footnotes

Jean Schlumberger (1907-1987), the French artist-jeweller par excellence was born in Alsace to a family of prosperous textile industrialists. His Meissen flowers mounted as clips caught the attention of Elsa Schiaparelli who commissioned him to design costume jewellery during the 1930s. After establishing workshops in New York and Paris, Tiffany appointed Schlumberger Vice President of the firm in 1956. While at Tiffany, Schlumberger was given total artistic freedom with his own department on the mezzanine of their Fifth Avenue store, and he was the first designer at Tiffany permitted to stamp his creations with his name. Through exceptional draughtsmanship and remarkable imagination, Schlumberger translated the inspiration he drew from the flora and fauna of the natural world into the vibrant and whimsical jewels that are his trademark. His choice of materials and textures creates a beautiful balance, even in his most unconventional designs.

Within European folk tradition, the salamander is symbolic of immortality. Said to be born from flames and invulnerable to fire, salamanders have been hailed by occultists as the 'elemental spirit of fire'.

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