Madison Rose Whitman
Specialist, Jewelry, NY
New York Jewels / CARTIER AN EXQUISITE DIAMOND AND NATURAL PEARL AIGRETTE, NEW YORK, CIRCA 1914
Sold for US$586,275 inc. premium
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This aigrette quintessentially reflects the confluence of the incoming Art Deco movement and Cartier's romance with India in the early 20th century. French for 'egret,' it was created to hold fantastic feathers, often supplied from the far reaches of exotic lands throughout the world, thus amplifying the intrigue of these jewels.
The piece was a departure from the taller tiara styles of the 18th century, bringing in a new era of refined opulence. The popularity of the aigrette rose at the end of the 19th century, and evolved to match the shorter hairstyles and minimalist lines of design brought about by the First World War.
The natural pearls are a historically significant feature, as the advent of the cultured pearl industry was on the horizon, which would forever change the pearl trade. This aigrette is a superb example of a bygone era, in which the inclusion of exquisite jewels was essential to a soignée evening dress.
Accompanied by GIA report no. 5221321964, dated 7 March 2022, stating that the pearl measuring 14.64 x 11.93 mm, is a natural saltwater drop, with no indications of treatment.
Accompanied by GIA report no. 225321993, dated 4 March 2022, stating that the pearl measuring 10.92 x 8.22 mm, is a natural saltwater button, with no indications of treatment.
Accompanied by Certificate of Expertise from Olivier Bachet, dated 18 April 2022.
Please note the GIA report number for the natural saltwater button pearl, is 2225321993.