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New York Jewels / CARTIER AN EXQUISITE DIAMOND AND NATURAL PEARL AIGRETTE, NEW YORK, CIRCA 1914

PROPERTY FROM THE COLLECTION OF HÉLÈNE IRWIN CROCKER FAGAN, THUS BY DESCENT
Lot 482
CARTIER: AN EXQUISITE DIAMOND AND NATURAL PEARL AIGRETTE, NEW YORK, CIRCA 1914
Amended
24 May 2022, 12:00 EDT
New York

Sold for US$586,275 inc. premium

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CARTIER: AN EXQUISITE DIAMOND AND NATURAL PEARL AIGRETTE, NEW YORK, CIRCA 1914

The diamond bandeau centering a finial of overlapping diamond twists, in which two natural pearls rest above and below an old European-cut diamond, weighing approximately 8.25 carats; the interior with loops to hold feathers, as was en vouge for the era; total estimated carat weight: 5.50 carats; mounted in platinum and steel; signed Cartier New York

Footnotes

This aigrette quintessentially reflects the confluence of the incoming Art Deco movement and Cartier's romance with India in the early 20th century. French for 'egret,' it was created to hold fantastic feathers, often supplied from the far reaches of exotic lands throughout the world, thus amplifying the intrigue of these jewels.

The piece was a departure from the taller tiara styles of the 18th century, bringing in a new era of refined opulence. The popularity of the aigrette rose at the end of the 19th century, and evolved to match the shorter hairstyles and minimalist lines of design brought about by the First World War.

The natural pearls are a historically significant feature, as the advent of the cultured pearl industry was on the horizon, which would forever change the pearl trade. This aigrette is a superb example of a bygone era, in which the inclusion of exquisite jewels was essential to a soignée evening dress.


Accompanied by GIA report no. 5221321964, dated 7 March 2022, stating that the pearl measuring 14.64 x 11.93 mm, is a natural saltwater drop, with no indications of treatment.

Accompanied by GIA report no. 225321993, dated 4 March 2022, stating that the pearl measuring 10.92 x 8.22 mm, is a natural saltwater button, with no indications of treatment.

Accompanied by Certificate of Expertise from Olivier Bachet, dated 18 April 2022.

Saleroom notices

Please note the GIA report number for the natural saltwater button pearl, is 2225321993.

Additional information