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New York Jewels / SCHLUMBEGER A RUBY AND SAPPHIRE LIGHTER, FRANCE, CIRCA 1939

PROPERTY FROM THE COLLECTION OF LADY ASHLEY
Lot 347
SCHLUMBEGER: A RUBY AND SAPPHIRE LIGHTER, FRANCE, CIRCA 1939
24 May 2022, 12:00 EDT
New York

US$3,000 - US$5,000

Specialists

SCHLUMBEGER: A RUBY AND SAPPHIRE LIGHTER, FRANCE, CIRCA 1939

Designed as an articulated fish, one eye set with a round sapphire cabochon, the other with a round ruby cabochon; the head opens to reveal a lighter; outercase composed of textured 18k gold; length: 4 1/4 in.; signed Schlumberger Modele Depose, with French assay marks

Footnotes

In 1939, Jean Schlumberger created his first design in precious metals and gemstones, Poisson, a flexible gold fish with incised scales and one sapphire and one ruby eye on a head that flipped open to reveal a lighter mechanism. This clever sardine would launch his career, appearing in Harper's Bazaar and gracing the handbags of fashionable women and the pockets of dapper men including Diana Vreeland and Kenneth Jay Lane, who donated his lighter to the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Schlumberger's clever and beautiful interpretations of natural motifs eventually lead Tiffany & Co. to hire him and he was the first designer to sign his work for the firm, including later versions of this articulated lighter. This fantastic fish is just as witty and stylish today as when Schlumberger designed it. As he said, "I observe nature and I find verve".

Courtesy of Sarah Davis

Cf. C. Bizot and E. Posseme, et al., The Jewels of Jean Schlumberger, Abrams, 2009, p. 28-29 and p. 50.
Cf. J. Falino and Y. Markowitz, American Luxury: Jewels from the House of Tiffany, ACC, 2009, fig. 114.
Cf. Harper's Bazaar, March 1939, 99. p. 60 and 62.

Additional information