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ANDREY, PROBABLY FOR CARTIER: ROCK CRYSTAL, DIAMOND AND RUBY BRACELET, CIRCA 1910 image 1

Lot 120

ANDREY, PROBABLY FOR CARTIER: ROCK CRYSTAL, DIAMOND AND RUBY BRACELET, CIRCA 1910

London Jewels

22 September 2021, 11:00 BST

London, New Bond Street

Sold for £69,000 inc. premium

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Kate Flitcroft

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ANDREY, PROBABLY FOR CARTIER: ROCK CRYSTAL, DIAMOND AND RUBY BRACELET, CIRCA 1910

Composed of nine transparent, circular rock crystal plaques, faceted on each side, applied with floral motifs, millegrain-set with old brilliant and rose-cut diamonds and a collet-set circular-cut ruby, between twin baton-links, set with calibré-cut rubies, maker's mark GA, numbered 7411, French assay marks, length 16.0cm, fitted case by Cartier, 13 Rue de la Paix, Paris, 14 New Burlington Street, London

Footnotes

Cartier commissioned a number of independent jewellery workshops to manufacture their designs exclusively for them. The maker's mark on this necklace is for Andrey, a Parisian workshop specialising in producing gem-set and platinum jewels for Cartier until the 1920s.

The Japanese style was a significant influence on Cartier. Pencil and ink studies of Japanese decorative motifs by Charles Jacqueau, circa 1910, depict rows of circular floral and cherry blossom motifs similar in design to this bracelet (see 'The Art of Cartier', Paris, 1989, p.126, ill.pl.150-151).

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