Illustrated manuscript survey of the North coast of Scotland undertaken by Captain Henry Charles Otter, R.N., in 1844, describing in detail the coast from Thurso to Cape Wrath, via Sandside, the Kyle of Tongue, Loch Eriboll and the Kyle of Durness, advising on the harbours, prevailing winds, safe anchorages ("...no landing for boats except in the finest weather...") and treacherous rocks to avoid ("...give...a sufficient berth to prevent the sea... from filling the boat & at the same time to keep clear of the Black Rocks..."), geological formations ("...a conical hill 630 feet high, the upper portion of which is Gneiss intersected with veins of quartz, half way down, conglomerate, and the sea cliffs are composed of old red sandstone..."), the landscape ("...a dreary waste of hills and steep ravines covered with short heather and coarse grass..."), local flora ("...that beautiful Alga the "Bonnemaisonia Asparagoides"..."), wildlife ("...wild fowl in great numbers... Seals also are numerous but they have been much disturbed lately..."), fishing ("...It abounds in Trout and Pike!..."), the local economy ("...vessels as large as 150 tons burden, laden with coal, tar, butter, salt etc sometimes come in here..."), ferries ("...The ferry belongs to the Duke of Sutherland, and is kept by a man who pays no rent, but is required to keep 4 men in pay & the boat in repair..."), notable coastal residences such as Bighouse ("...now in the possession of the Duke of Sutherland... no pretence to architectural beauty..."), local customs ("...the unsuspecting geese gather round... and are easily knocked down by sticks..."), history ("...It is famous for having been the place to which... the Danes... drove down the cattle... before taking them off to their ships... The above account was given to Mr Anderson of Rispond by Sir Walter Scott..."), and much else, ending with "Sailing Directions for the Kyle of Tongue"; bound with four fine pencil and watercolour full-page illustrations on paper backed on linen, inscribed in ink and pencil, including "Captn Slater's Monu[ment]", "Entrance of Loch Eriboll", and "Kyle of Durness looking up to Fionabhen and the Gualin", one pull-out depicting landscape profiles of Thurso, Entrance of Kyle of Tongue, Loch Eriboll and Entrance of the Kyle of Durness, two additional leaves with nine specimens of seaweed on cards slotted in, 67 numbered pages, plus 7 leaves of additional material, inscription on inside front board in ink "Given by Captain Otter./ Sutherland", maroon calf gilt with blind-stamping, titled in gilt 'Description of the North Coast of Scotland. 1844' on front board and in ink on spine, marbled ends, 4to (242 x 195mm.), Thurso to Cape Wrath, 1844; with a 16 page report on the East Coast of Sutherland, signed "Henry C. Otter/ Commander"; and four autograph letters to the Duke of Sutherland ("My dear Lord Duke") from Henry Otter advising the Duke on matters such as the local fishing industry, mentioning his disagreement with "Mr Stevenson" over the site for a harbour at Loch Robie ("...he may find more shelter in some winds by constructing his Harbour in the Bay..."), plans for a harbour at Scullamie and his coastal surveying work for the Hydrographical Office, 22 pages, folio and 8vo, Eastlands Southsea, HMS Comet and Tobermory, 28 February 1848 to 18 August [1849] (6)
Footnotes
'...THE VIEW OF BEN LOAGHAL FROM HENCE IS BEAUTIFUL, ITS POINTED PEAKS AND SALIENT SPURS CATCHING THE SETTING SUN, AND THROWING THEIR DARK SHADES INTO THE DEEP RAVINES, GIVE IT A DIFFERENT ASPECT EVERY HOUR...': A coastal survey presented to George Granville Sutherland-Leveson-Gower, 2nd Duke of Sutherland by Commander Henry Charles Otter, R.N.
Henry Charles Otter (1808-1876), then commander of the cutter Sparrow, was appointed to undertake surveys of the Western coast of Scotland after the unfortunate death of Commander M.A. Slater who fell over the cliffs at Holburn Head in the course of his duties in 1842, and to whom an obelisk was erected, as described in our survey: "...near a frightful overhanging cliff 250 feet high is a small monument... from whence the late Captain Slater is supposed to have fallen... To this indefatigable officer we are indebted for the survey of the greater part of the East Coast of Scotland...". Otter was to continue this work until 1863, and built up a reputation for taking a keen philanthropic interest in the people of the area, and for his evangelistic preaching (he and his sailors painted bible texts on the rocks at Lorn and the inscription 'God is Love' on the rocks near Tobermory Pier, which can still be seen) and, rather appropriately considering his name, for his swimming and diving abilities, having saved several of his crew from drowning over the years. In 1858, commanding the survey ship Porcupine he piloted the first transatlantic telegraphy cable in its final stages into Trinity Bay, Newfoundland, and his tidal work around the Scottish isles played a pivotal role in the later cabling of that area.
As shown by the letters and report included here, the 2nd Duke of Sutherland was actively involved in the mapping and surveying of the area and sought hydrographic data to assist with his plans for developing local coastal trade and the fishing industry. This is also confirmed by correspondence held in the UK Hydrographic Office from James Loch, MP for the Wick Burghs and factor to the Duke of Sutherland (see David L. Walker, 'Admiralty Charts in the Sutherland Papers', CAIRT: the newsletter of the Scottish Maps Forum, issue 34, January 2019, pp.6-8). The fine illustrations in our manuscript attest to Otter's abilities as surveyor and mapmaker, and the Sutherland Papers in the National Library of Scotland include several manuscript charts made and amended by Commanders Slater and Otter (Dep.313/3167/58; 3624/10; 3631/1; 3631/2; 3631/3; 3631/4 and 3631/6).