
Edward Luper
Specialist, Chinese Works of Art
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Specialist, Chinese Works of Art
十九世紀 御製緙絲雙龍戲珠紋荷包一對
Provenance: Linda Wrigglesworth, London
來源:倫敦Linda Wrigglesworth
Silk pouches decorated with suspended strings and tassels, such as the present lot, formed an essential part of the formal outfit worn by a high-ranking member of the Qing society. As there were no pockets in gowns or jackets until the beginning of the 20th century, small purses were usually suspended from the formal Court belt, chaodai, serving as receptacles containing daily necessities such as aromatic items, tobacco, and other small scholarly or ritual items. They were also used as part of formal ceremonial regalia.
Drawstring purses affirm the nomadic origin of the Manchu, as they probably developed from carrying purses made of leather which often contained pieces of flint needed to strike a flame, fundamental to the Manchu way of life. As the Manchu settled in China, cases for knife and compass were gradually replaced by cases made for fans, kerchief holders and other items, suggesting the more leisurely and scholarly existence of the Chinese literati. Once established in China, the Manchu Emperors often kept areca nuts in the purses, but also scented cotton and aromatic herbs.
Compare with a pair of related silk purses suspending tassels inset with coloured paste, illustrated by J.Vollmer, Imperial Silks. Ch'ing Dynasty Textiles from the Minneapolis Institute of Arts, Minneapolis, MA, 2000, p.775, no.362.