Footnotes

Accompanied by a report from SSEF stating that the spinel is of Tajikistan origin with no indications of treatment. Report number 105485, dated 6 March 2019.

"There is also.. an other kynde of Rubies which wee caule Spinelle"
Richard Eden, the 16th century alchemist, in 1555.

Until 1783, red and pink spinels were mistaken for rubies because they are chemically similar. Even after fine pink gems were known to be spinels they were still referred to as "balas" or "balais" rubies. The term "balas" derives from an ancient word for Badakhshan, a province north of Afghanistan on the border with Tajikistan, where important spinel specimens were anciently mined. These Kuh-i-Lal ('red mountain') mines were the world's main source of large spinels from the 1st century AD. Marco Polo (c1254–1324) described how "fine and valuable balas rubies" were dug only for the King, who owned the entire supply, which he sent to other kings as tributes or as "friendly presents".

Mughal emperors and their ancestors, the Timurids, valued large Kuh-i-Lal spinels for their beauty and as protective talismans. The gems were polished rather than cut and were often inscribed with the names of rulers and monarchs as a way of commemoration. The Carew Spinel, in the collection of the V&A in London, is inscribed with the names of Emperors Jahangir, Shah Jahan and Aurangzeb. Spectacular Mughal spinels which entered Persian, Russian and European royal treasuries include the "Black Prince's Ruby": a large uncut red spinel, it was given to the Black Prince by Pedro the Cruel in 1367, worn by Henry V in his helmet at the Battle of Agincourt and is now set in the Imperial State Crown in the British crown jewels. The 361-carat "Timur Ruby", also in the British crown jewels, was owned by Sultan Sahib Qiran and Ranjit Singh, the "Lion of the Punjab". A huge polished spinel decorates the Imperial Crown of Russia, made for the coronation of Catherine the Great in 1762.

From the 19th century, important spinels were cut according to European ideals, including the Hope Spinel, from the legendary collection of gem connoisseur Henry Phillip Hope that was sold at Bonhams in September 2015 for a world record price. Other large spinels of similar cut mounted in 19th century jewellery may be seen in the "ruby" jewels of Queen Therese in the Munich Treasury. These jewels were mounted in 1830 using a mixture of rubies and spinels from the collection of Elector Max III Joseph. The "Bagration" jewels, now in the collection of the Duke of Westminster, are Russian-made 19th century diamond and spinel jewels formerly owned by Catherine Bagration, a Russian princess.