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An art deco emerald and diamond bracelet, by Cartier, image 1

An art deco emerald and diamond bracelet, by Cartier, image 2

An art deco emerald and diamond bracelet, by Cartier, image 3

Lot 148

An art deco emerald and diamond bracelet,
by Cartier, circa 1930

Fine Jewellery

25 April 2018, 14:00 BST

London, New Bond Street

Sold for £308,750 inc. premium

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An art deco emerald and diamond bracelet, by Cartier, circa 1930

The front formed of three rows of graduated emerald beads between articulated architectural elements of fountain design, set with old brilliant and baguette-cut diamonds in platinum, the back formed of two rows of emerald beads, signed Cartier London, numbered 2058, length 18.2cm

Footnotes

Accompanied by a report from AGL stating that the emeralds are of Colombian origin, with indications of minor clarity enhancement. Report number 1090282, dated 16 February 2018.

The early 20th century vogue for Indian-inspired jewellery resonated particularly in England, probably due to Britain's Imperial interests. Cartier astutely made their London branch the pivot for all things connected with India, including maintaining customer relations with wealthy maharajas, who brought their valuable historic family gems to be re-set into modern platinum creations, to sourcing colourful gems from India for use in jewellery design. Jacques Cartier, director of Cartier London, first visited Indian in 1911, the first of many trips, where he became enamoured of the splendour and beauty of Indian jewels and gems. These vivid emerald beads – a gem revered by the Mughals – were no doubt fashioned by Indian lapidaries and sourced by Cartier from India. Once in London they were combined with platinum and diamond oriental "fountain" motifs, transforming them into a modern European jewel rooted in antiquity.

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