Caroline Morrissey
SVP; Head of Jewelry, US
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Lot 72
A diamond and enamel "Lily of the Valley" brooch, Donald Claflin for Tiffany & Co., circa 1969
24 April 2017, 15:00 EDT
New YorkSold for US$10,000 inc. premium
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A diamond and enamel "Lily of the Valley" brooch, Donald Claflin for Tiffany & Co., circa 1969
composed of eleven en tremblant lilies, set with round brilliant-cut diamonds, to a gold stem with green enamel leaves; unsigned; estimated total diamond weight: 5.00 carats; mounted in 18k gold; length: 2 7/8in.
Footnotes
The 1969 Tiffany & Company Blue Book featured a "Lily of the Valley" Brooch, designed by Donald Claflin. Designer Donald Claflin is most often recognized for his whimsical creations, often featuring fictitious characters typically defined by bold, colorful, unconventional gemstones and enamel; undoubtedly he had a sense of humor. As a skilled designer, Claflin also created landmark traditional jewelry, catering to the needs of Tiffany & Company's more conservative clients during his tenure there, from 1965 to 1977.
This "Lily of the Valley" brooch is the original prototype; it was produced in two styles: one set with enamel and diamonds, illustrated here, a naturalist version with diamond en tremblant flower heads, and another pave-set with diamonds which appeared in the 1969 Blue Book, both the same form and frame. Over the years, Tiffany & Company has featured both versions; in 1994 the enamel and diamond version of this brooch was advertised in the New York Times beckoning the beginning of spring.
Master jeweler Andre Chervin, owner of Carvin French, and Claflin became close personal friends. Andre Chervin, a formally trained Parisian jeweler, immigrated to the United States in 1951. He was immediately recognized for his superior craftsmanship, using the finest quality materials, as well as for being an adroit enamellist. His work was so extraordinary that he was sought after and produced work for famous American jewelry houses such as Van Cleef & Arpels, Tiffany & Co., Cartier, Bulgari, Yard, and Verdura.
Andre Chervin and Donald Claflin shared the same passion, interest and understanding of gems and jewelry. Ideas were discussed in the workshop and at the dining table. Sharing the same vernacular and vision made this working relationship ideal, unique and special. Jewels were produced seamlessly from concept to sketch to creation; all were fluid, luxurious, and finely executed – a rare collaborative example.
The inspiration for this brooch comes from the French custom of giving lily of the valleys on the first of May to celebrate spring. In 1941, May Day became an official French holiday. Gifting these delicate white fragrant bell-shaped flowers will porte-bonheur or bring good luck. The tradition of giving lily's of the valley is embraced throughout France and is seen as the return to happiness. As the flower of May, the lily of the valley also represents purity, humility and sweetness and is often incorporated in wedding and birth arrangements. This brooch represents and reflects a seldom seen simpatico that designer Donald Claflin and master jeweler Andre Chervin shared.