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An enamel and diamond 'Serpenti' bracelet-watch, by Bulgari, image 1

An enamel and diamond 'Serpenti' bracelet-watch, by Bulgari, image 2

Lot 135

An enamel and diamond 'Serpenti' bracelet-watch,
by Bulgari, 1967

Fine Jewellery

27 April 2017, 14:00 BST

London, New Bond Street

Sold for £68,750 inc. premium

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An enamel and diamond 'Serpenti' bracelet-watch, by Bulgari, 1967

Designed as a highly articulated coiled 'Serpe dei Ratti Giallo', the scales applied with orangy-yellow and red enamel, the serpent's head with a forked tongue and marquise-cut diamond eyes, the mouth opening to reveal a circular-dial with baton indicators, inscribed 'Serpe dei Ratti Giallo' to the inner undertail scales, signed Bulgari, dial signed Vacheron Constantin, Swiss assay mark, maker's pouch

Footnotes

Bulgari's "Serpenti" collection of jewellery and watches date from the late 1940s and has achieved iconic Bulgari status and is still today one of firm's most popular designs. This popularisation was partly thanks to the late Elisabeth Taylor, who was photographed wearing one of the first "Serpenti" watches on the set of the film 'Cleopatra' in 1962.

This early example of the "Serpenti" bracelet-watch displays the intricate manufacture of each "Serpenti" made in the second half of the 1960s. The hand crafted gold spring core, enabling the flexible serpent to coil and cling around the wrist.

Inscriptions were often marked on the undertails referring to specific species whose skins inspired the enamel work. This particular example is of a 'Serpe dei Ratti Giallo', or a Yellow Rat Snake.

For further examples of 'Serpenti' bracelet-watches by Bulgari see Triossi, A. (ed.), "Bulgari: Between Eternity and History", Milan, 2009, pp. 194-199.

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