Footnotes

祖母綠配鑽石別針,Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin,約1945年代
鑽石及祖母綠共重約8.70及21.20克拉

From the mid-1930's to the 1940's, the collaboration of American jeweller Trabert & Hoeffer with the Parisian house Mauboussin produced some of the most splendid high jewellery of its time.
Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin was formed in 1929, and soon became recognised as a significant landmark on Park Avenue, New York. The building at 407 Park Avenue housed the salon, studio and workshop on site. The 'Reflection' line of jewellery was first launched in 1938, introducing dramatic shapes and bold colours, influenced by the modern imaginative and glamourous French jewellery of the time to America.
The technique applied to this line of jewellery was through mountings which were handmade and set with coloured gemstones, most frequently matched with diamonds, to accentuate the preferred colour palettes for each client.
The style of 'Reflection' jewellery was modified over time, and by the early 1940's the designs were often defined by sculptural and fluid curves, evident in lot 572.

'Reflections' jewellery celebrated the uniqueness of each woman. It was fashionable to wear these jewels which demonstrated the confidence of the new American women depicted in fashion magazines such as Vogue and Harper's Bazaar in the early to mid-1940's.



從1930年代中期至1940年代, 美國珠寶商Trabert & Hoeffer 與巴黎珠寶品牌夢寶星攜手合作設計出一些在當時來說極其耀目的高級珠寶。

Trabert & Hoeffer-夢寶星於1929年成立, 旋即成為纽约派克大街的重要地標。位於派克大街407號的大樓內設有展覽廳、工作室及工場。 "Reflection"首輯珠寶系列於1938年發售, 設計意念受到富現代想像力和魅力的法國首飾影响,引入了戲劇性的形態及採用大膽的顏色。

運用於此系列珠寶的工藝的倒模都以人手製作，並鑲有彩色寶石，最常配以鑽石，用以強調每位客戶之色調偏好。

"Reflection"首飾的風格隨著時間而改變，到了1940年代初末，風格都以雕塑造型和流線型為主流，此可見於LOT572。

"Reflection"珠寶系列歌頌每個女性的獨特性。配戴這系列代表時尚, 可表現新時代美國女性的自信，就像1940年代初末至中期的時尚雜誌如Vogue和Harper's Bazaar裏所描繪的女郎一樣。