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Lot 802
A Kim Novak gray wool suit from Vertigo
30 November 2016, 12:00 EST
New YorkSold for US$28,750 inc. premium
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A Kim Novak gray wool suit from Vertigo
Paramount, 1958. Lightweight gray wool pencil skirt with central knife pleat bearing a blue-lettered Paramount label inscribed in black ink, "Kim Novak," and a matching jacket with a notched lapel, darted bust, five covered buttons, and turned up cuffs, lined in gray silk, bearing a blue-lettered Paramount label inscribed in black ink, "Double." The best known costume worn by the leading lady of Vertigo, one of Alfred Hitchcock's essential films.
The viewer first encounters Novak's character Madeleine as Scottie (James Stewart) follows her through San Francisco, on assignment from her husband. We see her wearing the gray suit as she walks through the flower market and sits at the museum, studying the portrait of Carlotta Valdes. Her sophisticated, minimalist ensemble is a key element in the mysterious attraction she holds for Scottie.
In addition to defining Kim Novak's character, her costumes in Vertigo form a central piece of the film's plot. While mourning the lost Madeleine, Scottie encounters her doppelganger, Judy (also played by Novak). Though identical in appearance, Judy's brown curls, red lipstick, hoop earrings and garish green polka dots could not be more different from Madeleine's restrained elegance. When Scottie attempts to make over Judy into Madeleine's image, he immediately takes her to a department store to purchase an identical gray suit, as this garment is essential to his idealization of Madeleine.
According to Novak herself, the gray suit was also integral to her development of the dual roles of Madeleine and Judy. During the initial costume design process, Novak reportedly told Edith Head that she did not wear the color gray, suits, or black pumps. The designer reported this to Hitchcock who promptly pronounced that Novak would wear a gray suit with black pumps. Novak said of this, "I had never had a director who was particular about the costumes, the way they were designed, the specific colors. The two things he wanted the most were those shoes and that gray suit." After the actress complained to Hitchcock, he said that she would not have to wear black shoes when she portrayed Judy but she would as Madeleine. Novak said of this, "That suit and those shoes were a blessing. I was constantly reminded that I was not being myself, which made it right for Madeleine" (Jorgensen, Edith Head: The Fifty Year Career of Hollywood's Greatest Costume Designer, Philadelphia: 2010, p 262).
The viewer first encounters Novak's character Madeleine as Scottie (James Stewart) follows her through San Francisco, on assignment from her husband. We see her wearing the gray suit as she walks through the flower market and sits at the museum, studying the portrait of Carlotta Valdes. Her sophisticated, minimalist ensemble is a key element in the mysterious attraction she holds for Scottie.
In addition to defining Kim Novak's character, her costumes in Vertigo form a central piece of the film's plot. While mourning the lost Madeleine, Scottie encounters her doppelganger, Judy (also played by Novak). Though identical in appearance, Judy's brown curls, red lipstick, hoop earrings and garish green polka dots could not be more different from Madeleine's restrained elegance. When Scottie attempts to make over Judy into Madeleine's image, he immediately takes her to a department store to purchase an identical gray suit, as this garment is essential to his idealization of Madeleine.
According to Novak herself, the gray suit was also integral to her development of the dual roles of Madeleine and Judy. During the initial costume design process, Novak reportedly told Edith Head that she did not wear the color gray, suits, or black pumps. The designer reported this to Hitchcock who promptly pronounced that Novak would wear a gray suit with black pumps. Novak said of this, "I had never had a director who was particular about the costumes, the way they were designed, the specific colors. The two things he wanted the most were those shoes and that gray suit." After the actress complained to Hitchcock, he said that she would not have to wear black shoes when she portrayed Judy but she would as Madeleine. Novak said of this, "That suit and those shoes were a blessing. I was constantly reminded that I was not being myself, which made it right for Madeleine" (Jorgensen, Edith Head: The Fifty Year Career of Hollywood's Greatest Costume Designer, Philadelphia: 2010, p 262).