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Lot 176
An antique gold, enamel and diamond pendant, probably 19th century
5 November 2014, 11:00 GMT
London, Knightsbridge£3,000 - £4,000
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An antique gold, enamel and diamond pendant, probably 19th century
Composed of layers of stylised leaves and scrolls, variously fretted, polished and decorated with black enamel and white enamels dots, set throughout with table-cut diamonds, the largest to the centre within high quatrefoil collets, suspending a similarly decorated pendant drop, mounted in closed-back yellow gold, engraving on reverse, two pendants missing, enamel loss, length 7.5cm
Footnotes
The multi-layer construction which is bolted into place and the use of black and white enamel to give depth and highlights to the design as well as prominence to the diamonds, is typical of early 17th century bodice ornaments and a pendant in similar taste, made in Southern Germany in 1620, is in the Victorian & Albert Museum in London (museum number 696B-1868). Another example, dated 1625-35, and originating from Poland, is in the National Museum of Budapest (inv. 60.198C). However, it must be stressed that numerous Neo-Renaissance models were produced in Germany in the second half of the 19th century. During this time, artists looked to the German Renaissance as inspiration for a national style for the newly unified nation. Applied arts associations were set up across the country and Renaissance art was meticulously studied and reproduced. One jewellery firm devoted its entire output to Neo-Renaissance pieces from 1876-95 and many manufacturers made such jewels for export. The Hanau Fachschulen holds in its collection a series of rings, made by students in the 19th and early 20th century, copying a Renaissance prototype. Many of these copies entered museum collections as originals. See Gere & Rudoe, Jewellery in the Age of Queen Victoria, London, 2010, pp 367-372, for a more detailed explanation of the passion for "Alt-Deutsch". Thus it is sometimes difficult to date with assurance jewels of this type. This pendant was purchased by a relative of the current owner in Poland in the early 20th century.