of deep pink silk of rectangular form with alternating bands of cintamani design in blue, pink and gold silk on a metal-thread ground, alternated with bands of plain metal-thread
27.5 x 10.2 cm.

Footnotes

Provenance: Private collection, Paris.

Most Ottoman silks produced for use within the empire were used either for garments or furnishings. The cintamani was a popular decorative motif reproduced on textiles, usually depicted as two wavy horizontal bands alternating with three circles in triangular formation. Translated from Sanskrit as "auspicious jewel," the motif originated in Buddhist imagery, and may represent pearls and flames.

The design elements of cintamani are sometimes referred to as "tiger stripes" and "leopard spots." Similar iconography is found in 16th Century Persian manuscript paintings featuring the Shahnama's hero, Rustam, who wears a garment of tiger skin and a leopard-skin hat, and possibly represents the fabric in Ottoman documents called pelengi (leopard-like) or benekli (dotted). Occasionally, cintamani is combined with floral elements in a delicate balance of the two distinctive styles, or the wavy lines and circular elements are separated to create singular motifs. In any combination, elements of cintamani were believed to protect the wearer and him with physical and spiritual fortitude

Another kemha fragment dated the late 16th Century which uses groupings of large and small cintamani triple dot motifs in the same palette is in the Victoria and Albert Museum (836-1904) (Gursu, Nevber, The Art of Turkish Weaving, p. 102, fig. 96); and for two further related fragments, see Sotheby's, Art of the Ottoman Empire, 24 April 2012, Lots 157 and 158.

Additional information

This auction is now finished. If you are interested in consigning in future auctions, please contact the specialist department. If you have queries about lots purchased in this auction, please contact customer services.
Buyers' Obligations
ALL BIDDERS MUST AGREE THAT THEY HAVE READ AND UNDERSTOOD BONHAMS' CONDITIONS OF SALE AND AGREE TO BE BOUND BY THEM, AND AGREE TO PAY THE BUYER'S PREMIUM AND ANY OTHER CHARGES MENTIONED IN THE NOTICE TO BIDDERS. THIS AFFECTS THE BIDDERS LEGAL RIGHTS.
If you have any questions about the Conditions of Sale, please contact your nearest client services team.
From 28 June 2025, the import into the EU of non-EU property of a certain age (and in some categories above a certain value) is subject to additional requirements. Under the relevant EU Regulation, it is the Buyer's sole responsibility to assess whether any Lot meets the criteria for import into the EU. The refusal of any required Import Licence or Importer Statement, or any delay in obtaining such Licence or Statement shall not give rise to the rescission or cancellation of any Sale, nor allow any delay in making full payment for the Lot.
Buyers' Premium and Charges
For all Sales categories, buyer's premium excluding Cars, Motorbikes, Wine, Whisky and Coin & Medal sales, will be as follows:
Buyer's Premium Rates
28% on the first £40,000 of the hammer price;
27% of the hammer price of amounts in excess of £40,000 up to and including £800,000;
21% of the hammer price of amounts in excess of £800,000 up to and including £4,500,000;
and 14.5% of the hammer price of any amounts in excess of £4,500,000.
A 3rd party bidding platform fee of 4% of the Hammer Price for Buyers using the following bidding platforms will be added to the invoices of successful Buyers for auctions starting on or after 6th July 2024 – Invaluable; Live Auctioneers; The Saleroom; Lot-tissimo.
VAT at the current rate of 20% will be added to the Buyer's Premium and charges excluding Artists Resale Right.
Payment Notices
For payment information please refer to the sale catalog.
Shipping Notices
For information and estimates on domestic and international shipping as well as export licenses please contact Bonhams Shipping Department.
- Islamic and Indian Art
- Modern & Contemporary South Asian Art

An Imperial Ottoman cintamani silk brocade Fragment (kemha) Bursa, Turkey, second half of the 16th Century

Own a similar item?

Looking for a similar item?

Ask about this lot

Oliver White