
Oliver White
Head of Department
Sold for £8,125 inc. premium
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For a very similar example see the Susan L. Beningson collection, When Gold Blossoms, exhibition catalogue, London, 2004, no. 96, and further examples in the Freer Gallery of Art (1990.4) and the Musee Barbier-Mueller, Geneva(2504-104) whereas in our example the flat engraved pieces fit together to form a flexible band from which the gold buds are suspended. The ruby-set gold elements imitate the forms of seeds, berries and flower buds which are the oldest shapes in Indian jewelery and considered highly auspicious. The ancient Tamil epic, the Shilappadikaram, refers to its main protaganist Kovalan wearing "a garland of jasmine buds, their hearts forced open by bees", an allusion to this type of gold necklace.
See also Christie's South Kensington, Arts of India, 1 October 2012, lot 37.