Matthew Thomas
Senior Specialist
Lot 225
A gem-set gold Turban Ornament (Jigha)
North India, Mughal, 18th Century
24 April 2012, 10:30 BST
London, New Bond StreetSold for £12,500 inc. premium
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A gem-set gold Turban Ornament (Jigha)
North India, Mughal, 18th Century
North India, Mughal, 18th Century
set with rubies, emeralds and diamonds; the central panel in the form of an open work flower head with a central square cut emerald; the tapering aigrette comprising of a line of graduated emeralds with a leaf-shaped ruby border to the ruby finial and pearl,spinel and emerald bead drop; the reverse plain gold with a receptacle for a feather (kalgi) and two loops for securing the ornament, the gold stem tana to fit the ornament into a turban
17cm. high
17cm. high
Footnotes
Provenance: Property of a Gentleman.
The jigha was worn exclusively by the emperor, his family and entourage. It was a symbol of royalty or royal favour and the presentation of a jigha indicated imperial approval. This elaborate creation evolved from the earlier Mughal practice of pinning a heron's feather or kalgi to the front of the turban. Attaching a pearl to the end of the plume so that it curved backwards gracefully was a style introduced by the Mughal Emperor Jahangir. During Emperor Shah Jahan's reign the simple plume underwent a transformation into an elaborate gem-studded creation incorporating some of the treasury's finest jewels. For further discussion on Turban Ornaments, see U Krishnan, Indian Jewellery: Dance of the Peacock, Mumbai 2001, pp.217-221.