Fine Jewellery
4 Dec 2016
London, New Bond Street

Jewellery from world-renowned designers also up for auction and waiting for new homes just in time for Christmas

An exceptional collection of gemstomes and jewellery will lead the final Bonhams London Fine Jewellery sale of 2016 on Sunday 4th December.

Gracing the catalogue front cover is an extremely rare Kashmir sapphire single-stone ring, weighing 14.13 carats. The cushion-shaped sapphire has no indications of heating and is estimated at £600,000–800,000.

Jean Ghika, Head of Jewellery for Bonhams UK and Europe, says: "Kashmir sapphires are amongst the most highly prized gems for serious collectors.  The mines, located high in the Himalayan mountain range in north west India, were only open for a period of approximately 30 years from the late 1880s onwards. Supplies were soon exhausted, making an example of this size a very rare specimen."
The global appetite for coloured diamonds has hit the headlines in 2016 and Bonhams is delighted to present a Fancy pink-brown diamond ring for sale at the auction. The step-cut diamond weighs 21.33 carats and is estimated at £600,000–800,000.

For those searching for the perfect white diamond this Christmas, Bonhams will also be offering a number of diamonds in a variety of shapes and sizes during its sale which commences at 10.30am on Sunday 4 December 2016.

The top white diamond lot is a 12.08 carats pear-shaped diamond single-stone ring, estimated at £500,000–700,000. Coming from a private collection created in the 1970s, the gemstone is accompanied by a report from GIA stating that the diamond is D colour, VVS1 clarity.

Art Deco jewellery set to capture collectors' interest

For jewellery lovers and collectors, the Bonhams sale also includes three impressive lots created in the Art Deco period, featuring emeralds. The first, an Art Deco Emerald and Diamond Bracelet, by Cartier, circa 1935, is estimated at £80,000–100,000. The bracelet has been designed with a series of undulating square-shaped links pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds, each centrally set with a cut-cornered step-cut Colombian emerald.

Jean Ghika comments: "It is more unusual to see an Art Deco piece with coloured stones given the majority of pieces from the period consist mainly of white diamonds. This splash of colour makes the bracelet a real statement piece and is a wonderful example of Cartier in its Art Deco heyday."

The second lot is a very elegant Art Deco Emerald and Diamond Bracelet, by Chaumet, circa 1930. The bracelet is set with five cabochon emeralds, of sugarloaf and oval shape, alternating with old brilliant-cut diamonds. Estimated at £100,000–150,000, the emeralds are of Colombian origin.

The third lot, a 1920s Art Deco Emerald Single-Stone Ring, is set with an impressive step-cut emerald, weighing 14.70 carats. Estimated at £150,000–200,000, this gem-quality emerald is of Colombian origin, with no indication of clarity modification. It is also accompanied by an appendix letter from the world-renowned SSEF Laboratory stating that this stone merits special mention and appreciation.

Eternally elegant pearls

No jewellery sale would be without what is regarded as the most elegant and classic of lots – natural pearls. Natural pearls continue to be in demand globally as a result of waning supply due to over fishing and pollution.

The first notable lot up for auction is a pair of Natural Pearl and Diamond Pendent Earrings. Measuring 11.8mm-19.15mm and 11.75mm-19.95mm respectively the earrings are estimated at £40,000–60,000.

The second notable lot is a Single-Strand Natural Pearl Necklace. The 93 natural pearls, graduating in size from 5.3mm–12.00mm are estimated at £80,000–120,000.

Iconic Van Cleef & Arpels jewellery
Signed jewellery from Van Cleef & Arpels is always souht after and Bonhams London is offering a number of excellent examples of pieces in its sale. These include:

A Gold and Diamond Necklace/Bracelet combination, Earclip and Ring Suite by Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 1970: The longchain of oval textured linking, some partially decorated with brilliant-cut diamonds, accompanied by a pair of pendent earclips and a bombé ring of similar design have a pre-sale estimate of £40,000–50,000.
A Cultured Pearl, Turquoise, Sapphire and Diamond Necklace and Earclip Suite by Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 1975: The necklace set with a detachable brooch/pendant of openwork cluster design, set with brilliant-cut diamonds, cabochon turquoise and sapphires and a central cultured pearl, estimated at £15,000–20,000.
A Gold and Diamond 'Ludo-Hexagone' Bracelet by Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 1937-40: Van Cleef & Arpels' "Ludo" bracelets are some of the firm's most innovative designs from the 20th century. In this piece, the highly articulated strap of hexagonal links are each inset with diamonds in a sunburst motif, the buckle clasp decorated with diamonds has an ingenious push-and-release mechanism. The bracelet is estimated at £25,000–30,000.

Cartier themed animal jewellery ready to fly at the sale

Animals feature in many fine jewellery collections from the great houses, past and present. The Bonhams December sale will feature the following animal themed pieces, all by Cartier:
A Lapis Lazuli, Onyx, Emerald, Sapphire and Diamond 'Panthère' Brooch, circa 1995: Estimated at £120,000–180,000.
A Diamond 'Panthére' Ring: Designed as a lounging panther with articulated head and paws, pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds, estimated at £25,000–30,000.
An Onyx, Emerald, Sapphire and Diamond 'Parrot' Ring, circa 1995: The sculpted feathers pavé-set throughout with brilliant-cut diamonds, with carved sapphire and emerald plume. Estimated at £30,000–40,000.

Rare Bulgari Serpenti
An Enamel and Emerald 'Serpenti' Bracelet-Watch by Bulgari, circa 1965: This is a rare surviving example of the famed Bulgari Serpenti design bracelet watch dating from circa 1965. Estimated at £50,000–60,000, the bracelet is composed of a series of overlapping scales which are rendered in palest blush-pink enamel.

Calling all Grima collectors
Bonhams has a long held reputation for selling pieces created by the famed society jeweller Andrew Grima. The Anglo-Italian designer became known as the doyen of modern jewellery design in Britain in the Sixties and Seventies. On offer is a Ruby, Diamond and Gold Choker by Andrew Grima. The meandering 18 carat yellow gold 'brick texture' choker, set with oval cabochon rubies and brilliant-cut diamonds, is accompanied by the original design sketch by Andrew Grima, signed and dated 1986. It is estimated at £6,000–8,000.

The auction takes place at Bonhams, 101 New Bond Street on Sunday 4 December at 10.30am and bids can be placed online on Bonhams website www.bonhams.com, via telephone, in writing, and also in person on the day of the sale. Details and full information on all 121 lots featured in the sale can be found here.
Bonhams sells more jewellery lots each year than any other international house and has more dedicated jewellery auctions annually.

Bonhams Hong Kong Rare Jewels and Jadeite sale takes place on 30 November 2016.  Bonhams New York Fine Jewellery sale takes place on 6 December 2016. 
Bonhams Fine Jewellery is also on Instagram on @BonhamsJewels.


Bonhams, founded in 1793, is one of the world's largest auctioneers of fine art and antiques. Today, the auction house offers more sales than any of its rivals. The main salerooms are in London, New York and Hong Kong. Sales are also held in the UK in Knightsbridge and Edinburgh; in the US, in San Francisco and Los Angeles; in Europe, in Paris and Stuttgart and in Sydney, Australia. Bonhams also has a worldwide network of offices and regional representatives in 25 countries offering sales advice and valuation services in 60 specialist areas. For a full listing of forthcoming sales, plus details of Bonhams specialist departments, please visit bonhams.com

  1. Lucinda Bredin
    101 New Bond Street
    London, United Kingdom W1S 1SR
    Work +44 20 7468 8363
  2. Jean Ghika
    101 New Bond Street
    London, United Kingdom W1S 1SR
    Work +44 20 7468 8282
    FaxFax: +44 20 7499 5364

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