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Tasting Notes at Massandra winery, Yalta, Ukraine
8/21/2007 and 8/22/2007
Massandra Dry Red, Alushta (65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Saperavi, 15% Local Varietals)
2004: Medium ruby color, grenache-like on the nose with notes of dust and simple red fruit. Light attack on the pallate which fleshes out to a pretty strawberry/red raspberry profile. 15 second finish is a little astringent, but not offensive. Very pleasant wine, but not too deep. More juicy fruit becomes evident with air and palate fattens out a bit more. Well balanced and tasty, but not serious wine. (85pts)
2000: Medium-full ruby color. Deeper and more recognizably cabernet nose with cassis and cherry making an appearance. The wine appears to be a touch volatile, but that could just be youth. Much deeper and textured on the palate with nuance of blackberries beginning to emerge. More syrupy on the palate, but still quite simple and dainty. Finish is acidic but enjoyable for 10 seconds. (87+pts)
1998: Still more weight than the 2000 or 2004. Structure is considerably more substantial, evoking the feel of something from the Medoc in a tannic vintage. Fruit is shy, perhaps dormant since the palate maintains a sense of intensity though there is no discernable profile to describe. Feels like this wine wants to be great but lacks the authority in taste. This is clearly better wine than the previous two tasted but judgement reserved because it appears to be missing something. Maybe its just a phase? (JR)
1990: Medium Ruby color. Dusty, grenache-like nose is back but very attractive. The attack is bright, waking the senses with a touch of acid and a flood of red berry fruit. The wine is medium-bodied, rich with a lingering tannic finish. Over time though, the wine thins out and tastes like a hypothetical blend of the 04 and 98. Characteristic of the four wines is very similar, leaning towards simple and charming but not serious. (86pts)
Massandra Sherry (Sercial, Verdelho and Albillo)
2002: Perfumy, floral nose with something synthetic (new vinyl?) underneath. Alcohol is very present at first, but over time is surprisingly well integrated both on the nose and the palate. The texture crescendoes to beautiful richness and depth, cascading a sweet profile of honeyed tropical fruits. Begins light and pliable but grows into something more syrupy and delicious. Very long alcoholic finish holds the fruit profile for ages. Difficult to resist the urge to keep drinking. Excellent! (92-92+pts)
1994: Still floral on the nose but adding in hints of chocolate and coffee. The attack is much richer, holding a moderate/medium body, start to finish. Chocolate is lightly translated onto the palate which is now delineating (as opposed to the very primary 2002) into beautiful honeyed pineapple, apricot and citrus. Though the palate is more tame (mature) this is still a beauty. Maturity still seems to be ages away though, which can only be a good thing. Impeccable balance will provide a long, pretty future for this wine. (91+pts)
1983: Very sweet, honeyed, sugary nose - even compared to its peers. This wine is clearly higher in concentration, glycerine and alcohol as evidenced by fat, slow legs and syrupy viscocity on the palate. The nose remains a very alcoholic, but is more mature and therefore better integrated, if less perfumy. The palate is smooth, dense and well-delineated with a more refined display of the same tropical fruits from the younger wines. It is in fact remarkable how consistent the personality of the wine is with peers who are 11 and 19 years younger respectively, though age has brought sublime balance to the alcohol. Longer, sweeter palate and finish make this a superlative digestif. (94pts)
1969: The perfume from younger vintages is back. Though I had believed the perfume was more a characteristic of youth, this is now profound in its expression of lavender, honeysuckle, spring flowers and of course, alcohol. Palate is viscous, delicious and consistent with a new dimension of delineation I did not anticipate. The wine can only be described as poised and precise, though not as weighty as younger examples. Eternal finish is elegant and sophisticated making this a very complete drink for sipping over time. (93pts)
1955: Very alluring, sweet nose that holds more complexity than any before. The nose is layers and layers of sweet dried fruit, flowers, almonds and chocolate. Palate is silky and deep, though not as viscous (which one would expect). Alcohol is fully integrated now leaving nearly perfect balance which continues well into a two minute finish! This wine is complete, balanced and stunning, though it would benefit from a touch more richness, which is the only reason my score isn’t higher. (95pts)
1944: Ethereal bouquet of flowers, crushed stones, perfume, flowers (especially honeysuckle), almonds and dried fruits. Only hints of chocolate now, but so complex and rich a scent as to leave a taster hunting for labels. 100% integrated alcohol permits more casual enjoyment of the deep and exhilirating palate, which is a literal translation from the nose. Finish is long, sweet and pure. There is not a hard edge to be found in this gorgeous sherry. (96+pts)
1870 Selected: This wine was not made by Prince Golitzin, but rather selected by Vorontsov. Dusty, cognac, flowery, chocolatey, almondey “Whoa!” nose. Palate is transparent to the bouquet, picking up weight in the mouth quickly. Long, smooth and balanced, but the finish gets quiet too quickly. Though the finish lingers, the diminishing volume is a disappointment because the flavors are so pretty. If the experience of tasting this could be stretched out to gain weight and decrescendo more slowly this would be a flawless wine. (96pts)
1840 Selected: Nose is complex but overwhelmed by alcohol, which is a bit out of balance for the first time in the flight. Similar in flavor profile to the 1870 but fading on the palate. Enjoyable but firm without much of a finish. Interesting, pretty but perhaps should have been consumed a while ago.
Massandra Pedro Ximenez Port (Livadia)
1913: Very uncharacteristic for port of any type. Madeira-like dried nose of perfume and parchment. Palate begins sweet but dries up as profile is very much almonds and papaya, finishing with only tiny remnants of the original sweetness. Finish is medium length and body, reminiscent of a great cognac and honey. (No score given)
Massandra Red Port (100% Mourvedre)
2003: Super-dark purple/black color. Dusty, dry and spicy mourvedre/grenache-like nose with a touch of tequila (alcohol) with tart red berry. Palate on the other hand is clean and profound in its richness and concentration. Evokes the image of aussie tawny and grenache ports in 10/90 proportion. Ultra long and primary finish. (89-91pts)
1978: Light brick color. Nose could not be more different, or more pretty! Smells like great old burgundy?! Funky, complex nose of sweet old red fruits, apricot, underbrush, earth and spice. Imagine a fortified version of 1972 Clair Dau Chapelle Chambertin. Silky texture and surreal concentration of what are usually nuanced flavors wrapped up in a powerful but seductive package. Well balanced though perhaps a little on the sweet side. Alcohol is well-knit and unobtrusive in a wine that begs to be savored. (95+pts)
1977: Light strawberry-juice color, still hinting at old burgundy funk, but also has dust and maraschino cherry. Very interesting crème de casis syrup palate with a little more alcohol – more port-like than other wines in the flight. Finish falls a touch flat but the wine is deep enough and pleasing enough to be highly enjoyable. (92-94pts)
1976: Medium-pale color. Dusty nose with simple but pure ripe red cherry fruit underneath. Palate is true to the nose but not as rich or complete as its siblings. Very good wine in flavor and balance, but not complex enough to compete with other wines in the flight. (90pts)
1975: Again, dusty on the nose but more pronounced with cherry/cassis buried deeper below. Still maintains a distinct red sweetness, but can be characterized in just 3 components (Dust, cassis and sweet). Palate is equally simple, perhaps a little chunky but the finish is a clean, bright and pure take on the same flavors which lasts quite a while. (89-90pts)
1944: Dust is apparently a permanent component of these wines. Not unpleasant at all, but something I imagined would fade over time. Sweetness is less pronounced but the nose is still sweetness over red berry fruit and hints of that grenache-spice again with coaxing. Palate is much richer with clean, red ruit and fresh acidity that also brings out touches of iodine and alcohol in the long, satisfying finish. Very tasty. (94pts)
1926: Nose is quite muted, slightly dusty but sweeter. Palate adds dried fruits to the red fruit profile, though red fruits are now showing maturity and are less vibrant. Very elegant throughout and complete enjoyable, though completely mature. The interesting thing about these wines, however, is that maturity does not signify old age. This wine will likely hold for another 30-40 years! (94pts)
1919: Similar to the 1926, this wine is quite muted in bouquet. Fractionally more dusty with less overt sweetness in the dried fruits, honey and spice. Palate is more spirited and tart though still pretty and long. Structure overwhelms the body a little bit – the wine would benefit from more expressive fruit but would make a great accompaniment to hard cheeses. (88-89pts)
1896: Very pretty, sweet and complex nose. Hints at a Pichon-lalande like herbaceousness over a sweet fruit core with touches of that ever-present dust. Pity the nose is not more amplified or explosive because inhaling this stuff is a dream!. The palate is incredibly well structured and balanced, if not delicious. Plenty of delineated, complex, honey-dried fruit and acidity for freshness. Finish is a long, lush decrescendo lasting over a minute. This is absolutely wicked! (97+pts)
Massandra Livadia Red Port (100% Cabernet Sauvignon)
2000: Opaque red/purple color. Heavy dusty/grenached jammy fruit nose, completely irreverent towards its varietal origin. Dust must clearly be a function of winemaking rather than terroir as it appears in so many of these red ports, despite different varietal components. The attack is quite acidic, which holds promise. The wine is well-balanced in structure, fruit and earth tones, so the acidity really just cleans up the palate for a flood of lush, cherry, raspberry and petrol flavors. Long fruity finish with loads of raw materials which will undoubtedly evolve into something beautiful. (93-94pts)
1991: Curiously out of character with the flight. The wine still has that raspberry/jammy fruit nose, very little grenache character remaining, but character has become overall more syrupy and candy-sweet. Palate is richer, less acidic and more fruit forward with a very candied apple/cherry “Jolly Rancher” finish. Fun drink but difficult to assimilate in the company of its peers. (93pts)
1985: Showing surprisingly young despite its age. Very little lightening in color given 20 years of bottle age! The nose has lost the dust and grenache notes that occur so frequently in the red ports of Massandra, but the remainder of the nose, palate and finish are suprisingly unevolved. Identical red-fruit palate to the 2000 but a touch more calm and better integrated on the alcohol front. Delicious and balanced fruity finish. (93-94pts)
1977: Finally, signs of lightening in the color/opacity of the wine, though this is still a deep ruby at the center! Purity of fruit on the nose expressing simple but rich and sweet cassis/raspberry. Still softer on the palate than prior examples but remarkable consistency in profile and quality when compared to the same wine 23 younger! Balance is healthy with the alcohol becoming a touch more prominent, but in a good way, lending depth and helping define the lush palate and long, pretty fruit finish. (93pts)
1954: Complete turnaround from the pattern that was unfolding. Rich sauternes-like color. Aromatic profile is extremely reticent and difficult to describe but for some lingering honey-sweetness. Palate is not quite as well balanced with some out-of-place acidity in the finish and the end of the palate. Palate is still tasty and pleasant, off-sweet with honeyed apricot and dried mango and papaya flavors, but is not well defined and leans towards flabby. Fun to drink but not as well made as its siblings in the flight. (89-90pts)
1894: More character underlying an alcoholic nose. That old, dusty cabernet personality is present though subtle. Crisp acidity remains throughout the crystal-clear palate. Impressive depth and richness make this an excellent experience with a long, medium-weight finish. Fresh, honeyed and long, very, very good – a hypothetical blend of an old Chateau Montelena and an older, softer vintage of Taylor Fladgate. (92+pts)
1891: The dusty nose returns to dominance! Coaxing brings out honeyed dry fruits, again its papaya, pineapple, apricot and peach but still holds notes of red berries as well. Fresh acidity, slightly herbaceous note kicks off rich, burly body. The wine is concetnreated and sweet with excellent structure and balance. Silky texture throughout the palate leading into a long, sexy finish. Outstanding! (96-97pts)
MINI 1945 Horizontal
Crimea White Port: A color similar to the middle 80’s Sauternes. Honey, lemon, citrus, grapefruity nose is translated to the palate clearly. The attack is mildly acidic which tapers off to a medium bodied palate which is a touch lean on fruit. This wine lacks depth with a short-ish finish but is none the less very charming and easy to drink. (90-91pts)
South Coast White Port: Same Sauternes color as the 1945 Crimea White Port. Muted nose has a touch of alcohol and freshly cut grass/lemony nose. More dense with excellent and balanced acidity. This wine too is medium bodied but has no sense of being lean. Though the finish on this wine is also a touch on the short side, this is more complete and makes up in balance what it lacks in finish. (92+pts)
Crimea Red Port: Dusty Cabernet nose showing hints of old dry wine (also cabernet sauvignon). Backwards palate such that the alcohol becomes more evident, possibly as a result of late-appearing acidity. Honeyed papaya nose leads into a rich and lush flavor profile of the same with more raisin character in addition to the apricots, peaches and papaya palate. Finish fades to a low volume but lingers for a long time. The flavor profile in this merits a higher score though the balance and structure of the wine aren’t quite as perfect as the 1945 South Coast White Port. (93-95pts)
South Coast Red Port: Nose is dominated by raisins with undertones of blood orange, though lacks any real definition. This wine is powerful but silky and has clearly the best balance of any 1945 tasted at this estate. Still feels heavy in raw materials but will hopefully develop more specific character if and when it delineates. All the components are there, they just need dressing. (93-96pts)
Kagor (Cahor) (100% Separavi)
2003: Big, grenache and flowers nose. Grenache and raisin palate. Hugely extracted with extraordinary levels of concentration, residual sugar and fruit. The wine is very low acid but big alcohol compensates on the palate. If the structure fills out to be more than bulky, chewy and the balance settles down this should easily merit an upper-mid-90’s score. (92pts)
1987: Big, grapy red fruit nose of pure and rich raspberry. You would never guess this wine is 20 years old since the character is so unevolved and brutish. If it had been a sample 10 years younger I could easily have believed it. Gobs of sweetness and fruit, a little tannin, a bit of alcohol but again missing a touch of acidity to bring it all together. The finish is fat and long, give this baby another 20 years before it starts to really evolve and show off! (93pts)
1973: Strikingly similar to the 1987! The residual sugar is a bit more inline with the acidity and overall balance has setled convincingly. This is actually fresher than the younger samples of the same but also shows signs of maturity and delineation, which bring the experience to a new plateau. It is unbelievable that this wine is 30 years older than the 2003. The pattern, clearly, is to see these wines evolve at a glacial pace. Perhaps my estimations for maturity were too conservative. (94-95pts)
1955: Finally we are developing some measure of complexity (it only took 42 years bottle age). This still shows clear signs of all the vibrant red fruit and raw materials witnessed in the younger vintages of this wine and could easily be seen as a sibling to the 2003, but this has additional nuance that speak to pedigree and class! The acidity in all the Kagor wines has been too low to really pull the wine together in the way you’d like to see, but they are so delicious its hard to complain. If it can be safely assumed that the trend will be for age to bring these wines into balance then they will be well worth the wait, though drinking them young can be hedonistic enough to be difficult to resist. (95pts)
1933 Ayu-Dag: The likeness and profile between every vintage of the Kagor wines is stunning. The 1933 Ayu-Dag is no different though this now leans more towards a raisiny nose than that big, all-raspberry fruit, gobsmacking richness. Almost reminds me of a great Quintarelli amarone. This wine however is a touch oversweet (possibly because we’ve had so many fortified wines today). Now that the raw red fruit is not as vibrant we are left with a ton of sugar and not enough delineated personality to bring it into focus. The finish is still long with dark red fruit. With a dry cheese this will be stunning wine but it may turn out to be a little much on its own. Would like to taste this again on a day we haven’t had 50 previous fortified bottles! (90pts)
Prince Golitzin Seventh Heaven (70% Kokour, 15% White Muscat, 15% Red Muscat)
2000: 1967 Sauternes color. Great nose of honey, red fruit and raisins. Smells like a hypothetical blend of great Aussie tawny port and a mineral-driven Monbazillac. Very expressive nose leads to a very literally translated but slightly shut-down palate. Low acid is compensated by spirit to leave a long sweet, crisp finish. (95pts)
1997: More spritited nose presses the raisiny-amarone character to the background. Also slightly stony on the nose with sugary notes (moreso than the 2000). This is also a low acid wine with a more clearly Monbazillac, minerally-sweet palate. Long, slightly alcholic finish (in a good way) where again the spirit takes the places of natural acidity to keep the finish clean and long, bringing balance to a wine that should come back to a more natural balance with age. (94-95pts)
1880: Fantastic nose of tawny port displaying real depth, purity and concentration. Raisins and brandy are prominent with a mature botrytis character which is literally translated on the fine, mature, long and beautiful palate. This is compelling wine with real elegance and precision that leads to a superlative, touch alcoholic, tawny-port like finish. Beatutiful! This would benefit from a little more up-front acidity, which is the only criticism I can level at this stunning non-fortified wine! (96+pts)
Massandra South Coast Tokay
2004: Super-grapey nose with integrated but noticeable alcohol notes. Primary nose points to primary palate. Sweet floral-peachy profile is super clean and pure with undertones of vanilla and maybe a hint of spice. This is another case where the spirits bind the structure of the wine in place of natural acidity but there is enough acidity to expect excellent balance in time. (JR)
1987: This is an attention-getter from go. Funky, sweet nose with a touch of oxidation maybe (in a wine this young?). Seemingly yeasty, raisin bread and wheat nose. Low acid attack leads up to a lush but somewhat ambiguous palate. This is simple but the pure raisin-honey profile has a long, crisp, slightly alcoholic finish. Texture is pretty and rounds this into a really fun drink. (93pts)
1973: Nose is very similar to the 1987 despite 14 years difference in age. This is notably more profound, if not more complex. Touches of mint appear in the raisiny/funky nose. Palate starts very round but picks up focus and richness. This is viscocity redefined with sweet pure notes on the palate that mimic what the nose has offered. Appearance of high notes helps make the residual sugar easier to take without the accompaniment of food but the lack of acid is more apparent. Finish favors the deeper notes in the profile and lingers for a long time. (92pts)
1957: Heavy bread and yeast on the nose. More mint as well though not enough to make it prominent. Candied banana nose with vanilla beginning the development of secondary characteristics. I can’t believe how slowly these wines mature! Still needs to delineate, though it undoubtedly will do so with time. This wine, like its peers, would benefit from a higher natural acidity before the palate really fleshes out in each sip, but the finish remaines very long and attractive if a little dark in profile, with crème brulee and a slightly vegetal maturity to it. (94pts)
1929 Ai-Danil: Amber-gold color. Excellent and complete nose of mint, raisin, vanilla, crème brulee with gentle and pleasant notes of fresh bread. Palate opens fresh for a change with ample acidity and fleshes out to demonstrate touches of alcohol in perfect harmony and balance. This is very serious wine with a long and lingering rich caramel finish. (96-97pts)
1924 Gurzuf: Dark amber color. Sweet bread (not to be confused with sweetbreads) nose with raisin backbone. This is less complex but more powerful, and may be younger in development than the ’29 Ai-Danil. Well balanced though low acid in the mouth with excellent texture. The finish is slightly balanced twoares shugar and misses the freshness of some of the other exmaples. This wine is a little awkward in a manner that is difficult to describe. I really would have liked to have this with some goat cheese though its perfectly pleasant on its own. (92+?pts)
1924 Kuchuk Lambat: Rich, amber color. Excellent nose shows dust with mature conplexity only starting to develop. Palate is very chunky and chew with raisins & honey in a very bold, dramatic texture. This wine is enourmous and can easily last another 50 years. It feels funny to talk about long-term aging potential in a wine that is already 83 years old, but I would really like to see this wine evolve over my lifetime. (94+?pts)
1923 Ai-Danil: Very different stylistically with evident but not overpowering alcohol on the nose. Subtle raisin and caramel notes on the nose as well. Pronounced cognac, raisin, honey and honey dried fruits on the palate. Finish is quite but poised and eletgant. Very unique balance, but excellent balance just the same. (95+pts)
Massandra Ai-Danil Aleatico
1945: Iodine nose with sweet alcohol. Palate is fruity like baked apple and cinnamon crumble with brown sugar and floury notes. Not sure if it was the wine or my imagination that also brought out flavors of vanilla ice cream and whipped cream. The integrated but noticeable alcohol again compensates adequately for low acidity leading into a very long and charming finish. Sweet, clean and easy to drink, this is excellent juice. (92-94pts)
Massandra White Muscat South Coast
2002: Rosy color with a nose like extracted Sauternes. Tons of tawny fruits too with low but present acidity. Still the wine is back-heavy for a moment. Citrus notes on the palate with sugared apricots. Finish is clean, fresh and long ending in a single, pure peach note. (91-93pts)
1987: More pronounced peach and apricot nose with touches of honey and pretty mint. Silky dried peach palate also demonstrates honey. Almost has a triple-sec character but not as sweet nor does it show any heat. Fantastic texture is lush, round and enveloping fleshing out to a clean, balanced and fruity finish. Delicious! (93pts)
1975: Nose leans back towards apricot over peaches with honey and the appearance of raisins and a sublime minty character. Rich, dense and more balanced in sweetness though structural components wouldn’t initially lead a person to feel it immediately. Alcohol provides freshness and a crip personality that carries through the long, Sauternes-like finish. Borders on greatness! (95pts)
1945 Red Stone: This is the real deal! Ethereal depth to the mature apricot, spice and honey noese. Still evolving but absolutely phenomenal right now. Clean attack to the palate with super pretty balance, integration and structure. The front of the palate is maybe a touch vague but picks up precision and delineation very quickly. Fantastic juice. (95-96+pts)
1929 Massandra: Nose of foliage, raisins and dried, honeyed apricot. Approach is clean, delicious and pure – transparent to the nose and adding rose petals and peaches. Approach is clean, delicious and pure with honey apricots, raisins and alcohol. Finish lasts for ages and is true to the palate with additional complexity. Soft, pretty wine. (93+pts)
1923 Massandra: More mature undergrowth and resin nose with more pronounced alcohol. Significantly more mature than the 1929 though only 6 years apart. Mint appears on the palate and nose adding to an already delicious and well balanced wines. Structure is flawless, finish is long and fresh. Outstanding wine! (96-97pts)
1928 Livadia: Very light, bright and vibrant nose. Sugared peach with flowers and alcohol. Baked vanilla & banana. Palate is also banana parfait with peaches, raisins and honeyed brown sugar. Lush with even, mature but rich texture. This is a fantastic wine which finishes long and balanced on the high notes, in the upper palate. This is something to covet. (97pts)
1915 Livadia: Dusty, quiet nose is reticent but for the presence of alcohol. Palate is very rapid crescendo and decrescendo but very tasty with a honey-raisin profile. Not a wine of serious structure or balance but is very interesting and enjoyable, if not curious. In comparison to its peers this can not be scored very highly but this is very pleasant drinking. (89-90pts)
Massandra Rose Muscat
2004 South Coast: Deep, dark, opaque purple color. Raspberry jam nose with a bit of heat. Nice acid & alcohol attack followed by thick, sweet, chewy raspberry with a long, sweet decrescendo finish. (91+pts)
1988 South Coast: Red and amber color. Similar raspberry jam nose as the 2004 with a perfumy character and alcohol. Attack is fresh with good acidity but is softer and approachable with better balance. Alcohol is expressive through the finish resulting in a fading of the fruit a little more quickly than I would have anticipated. (92pts)
1945 Dessert: Stylistically very different than the other Rose Muscats. Nose shows a little oxidation, underbrush and earth with a mild, perfumed red berry. Simple and sweet palate has fomidable fruit, moderate texture and a simple finish. Pretty but not terribly complex. (90pts)
1935 Gurzuf: Heavy dried berries nose with earth and more evident oxidation and maturity. Dust coated raspberry fruit on the palate with an alcoholic freshness but showing no signs of heat. Palate is well-knit with medium acid and solid structure provided by the alcohol with a lean, medium-length finish. (93-pts)
Massandra Livadia Rose Muscat
1929: Cherry cough syrup, berries and caramel nose is a touch hot but pretty and perfumey. Medium bodied and not overly sweet with the bulk of texture and structure being provided by alcohol. The finish is well textured with a light tawny-style flavor. (91-93pts)
1924 (750ml): Much richer and more mature than 1929 with a profound nose of distinction, delineation and class. Tea notes with sugar, orange jelly are the bouquet and the attack on the palate, which is filled in by candied caramel and coffee. Very vibrant, complex and complete with a lingering finish which is absolutely brilliant if not sexy. The freshness of the acid/alcohol balance keeps the extraordinary sugar content in check making this a superlative effort. (96pts)
1924 (375ml): A little more than half the nose is dust rather than orange candy but both present. Not as expressive on the nose as the 750ml but the palate is quite clean and rich, if a little less complex in the mouth. Finish is a more complete [rofile than the flavor itself, which is a little bizarre, but pleasant. The finish nearly feels more dense than the body of the wine if a little less complex. (93-95pts)
1923: Very sweet marmalade and caramel nose. Bold aromas combine with raisin hues. Palate is fresh, clean and pure with gentle orange and honey notes. Finish is a little muted but lasts forever, sustained by the alcohol as much as the wine’s depth. (94pts)
1905: A complete change in pace but in phenomenal form. Pickles, dillweed, smoked hickory and sweet vegetable on the nose (trust me it’s a good thing). Palate gets thicker and grows in flavor and scale through a velvety and sexy texture. Silky wine with sweet orange, pickle, honey, caramel flavors that taper into a long, dense finish. Its as oustanding as it is unique. Fantastic! (96-98pts)
Massandra Ai-Danil Pinot Gris
2002: Touches of grenache and tawny port but well melded to traditional pinot gris flavors. The wine is a touch alcoholic but not out of balance. Excellent acidity opens the canvas for delicious red, jammy fruits. Alcohol is welcome on the palate as it is well fitted to the very dense profile which extends into a long decrescendo of a finish. Excellent! (94pts)
1990: Grenache with jasmine, tea, orange peel, caramel and something exotic I can’t quite put my finger on. Palate is equally vibrant but less evolved. This wine has flawless balance, excellent richness and velvety texture adding honey, lemon and tropical flavors to the beautiful orange core. Silky rich finish to this compelling wine. It’s the sort of wine you are afraid to sip because each swallow means you approach the end of the bottle. This is just awesome! (96-98pts)
1964: Dill appears again but not as predominantly. Funk is complex but difficult to read because of the elevated alcohol content. Again we have jam, tea and smoked meats well integrated with lush, mature red fruit flavors. The palate is a little bottom heavy but has good acid, excellent flavor, precision and depth. This is medium bodied, delicious with a long medium finish that is a pure delight. (94-95pts)
1954: Change of profile as these wines get more mature and more strange, in a very good way. More pickle, more tea, more meat, less fruit and maybe less complexity in this vintage. This is still a very attractive bouquet but not as dense or profound. The palate is also more tame and different in profile with one singular but beautiful not of sweet Sauternes fruit. The alcohol is not obtrusive and the balance is well-etched with healthy flavors throughout, but it lacks the complexity and class of other vintages of Ai-Danil Pinot Gris. Very long, enjoyable finish. (93pts)
1945: Dill, rose tea, flowers and delicious fruit plus more exotic layers of complexity on the nose. Excellent acidity and explosive vibrance on the palate. Textured like great mature vintage port. Its not quite syrupy but rich enough you would never mistake this for a light wine lacking depth. Beautiful fruit and a deceptively long finish that starts very vibrant, quickly loses volume but lasts forever. (96-97pts)
Massandra Signature Wines
1886 Prince Golitzin Honey of the Altae Pastures: Words can not begin to describe how unique a wine this is. Other tasters have applied the terms “lime cordial, coffee, smokey old spice” and you can actually smell honey. Not a honey-type of note, but actual bee-produced honey. This taster can see the honey, coffee and citrus fruit though cordial might be a bit much. There is also red fruit and toffee on the nose. The balance is impeccable, perfectly integrating the sweet, lush and exciting. Though sweet, and ridiculously complex, it is never over the top or overwhelming. Powerful and thick with a gentle mouthfeel, this wine reaches its peak half way through the endless finish when the startling complexity is at its best. A phenomenal experience that must be tasted to be understood. I would compare it to flying a space shuttle: How would you describe such a thing to someone who has never so much as been on a plane?
1914 Massandra Malaga
Watching this poured was like watching heavy motor oil drain from a cold bottle. Viscocity and glycerine are beyond remarkable before so much as a twirl has been given to the glass. Dark red/Mahogany color with incredible clarity. Swirling the glass actually leaves a complete coat – there are NO legs to be found. The glass just stays coated. Scents of coconut, orange, pineapple, cherry, menthol, grass, raisins, honey, vanily, caramel, almond joy and maybe a little coffee. The palate exhibits flawless structure and explosive intensity like nothing I have tasted before. Great acid, phenomenal concentration and extraction buffered by enough strcuture and alcohol to keep the wine from overpowering the taster. This is a seamless wine by definition without a single sensation falling out of place. The finish lasts longer than I am willing to wait between sips. This is the greatest sweet wine I have ever tasted in my life. In the words of another critic, it is a pity the scale has to stop at 100.
Star Lots
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Contacts |
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United Kingdom
Richard Harvey
European Head of Wine
London
Tel: +44 (0)8700 273 622
Anthony Barne
UK Head of Wine
London
Tel: +44 (0)1672 564 662
USA
Frank Martell
Head of Department
Los Angeles
Tel. +1 (323) 436 5431
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