An aquamarine and chrysoberyl necklace, attributed to Louis Comfort Tiffany for Tiffany & Co.,
Lot 33
An aquamarine and chrysoberyl necklace,
attributed to Louis Comfort Tiffany for Tiffany & Co., circa 1915
Sold for US$ 56,250 inc. premium
Auction Details
Fine Jewellery
New York
9 Apr 2014 13:00 EDT

Auction 21632
Lot Details
Property of various owners
An aquamarine and chrysoberyl necklace, attributed to Louis Comfort Tiffany for Tiffany & Co., circa 1915
suspending a navette-shaped pendant, set with hexagonal-shaped aquamarines and circular-cut chrysoberyls, from a chain designed as square-cut aquamarine links alternating with pear and circular-cut chrysoberyls; signed Tiffany & Co.; mounted in eighteen karat gold; length of necklace: 23 1/2in., length of pendant: 2in. (one small aquamarine has been replaced)

Footnotes

  • Based on the unusual color palette and the design, one would assume this necklace was created by Louis Comfort Tiffany's head designer Meta Overbeck between 1915-1920. Her creations exemplify a clear understanding of jewelry, color and balance.

    It is likely that this sautoir was the culmination of three distinct creative forces at Tiffany & Company, responsible for the outstanding designs during this era. First with George Kunz, the head gemologist for Tiffany & Co. possibly procuring these beautiful and lively coffin-shaped aquamarines, presenting them to Louis Comfort Tiffany. Tiffany would then suggest that these gemstones be incorporated into a Moorish inspired design. Lastly, Meta Overbeck would be entrusted to create designs that transposed these ideas into a piece of jewelry.

    The pattern of this necklace together with its color palate of fancy- cut gemstones reflects the classic texture seen in Moroccan architecture and is echoed in the intricately designed gold gallery. This theme was present in many of Louis Comfort Tiffany's creations as well as seen in his home at Laurelton Hall.
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