Tiffany HC watch pearl and emerald
Lot 94
Tiffany & Co. A unique 18K gold hunter cased fob watch pavé set with pearls and emeralds, designed by Paulding Farnham for the Columbian Exposition of 1893No. 81092, the case with Tiffany's Columbian Exposition hallmark
Sold for US$ 52,500 inc. premium
Auction Details
Lot Details
Tiffany & Co. A unique 18K gold hunter cased fob watch pavé set with pearls and emeralds, designed by Paulding Farnham for the Columbian Exposition of 1893
No. 81092, the case with Tiffany's Columbian Exposition hallmark
Nickel finished keyless lever movement jeweled through the center, counterpoised escapement with bimetallic balance, overcoiled spring with regulator index on train bridge, glazed cuvette, white enamel dial with grape vine wreath enclosing roman chapters, gold scroll hands, the case lids pave with split pearls and emeralds forming stylized flowers, case and movement signed. 37mm

Footnotes

  • The present watch is recorded in John Blades and John Loring's Tiffany at the World's Columbian Exposition as one of "13 Ladies' Watches," in Catalogue no. 46. It is listed as a "Lady's Watch, gold pearl and emerald pave" that was made for the exhibition.

    Paulding Farnham (1859-1927), whose jewelry defined the Tiffany style at the end of the 19th century, began his career at the age of 20 as apprentice to Tiffany silver designer Edward C. Moore. By 1885 he had become Moore's chief assistant and two years later began designing jewelry and silver for Tiffany's exhibit at the 1889 Paris Exposition. Among these were realistic brooches in the form of orchids fashioned from enameled gold. These flowers caused a sensation and won the gold medal for jewelry design.

    Almost without a pause, following Moore's death in 1891, Farnham set to work on jewelry destined for Chicago and the 1893 Columbian Exposition. The present watch reflects jewelry produced under the influence of Tiffany's gemologist George Frederick Kunz. In particular a brooch of pearls and emeralds influenced by Sioux Indian shield designs made for the 1889 Exposition is a precursor to the watch. See John Loring's Paulding Farnham, Tiffany's Lost Genius, p 169.
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