A belle époque pearl and diamond sautoir, J.E. Caldwell,
Lot 17
A belle époque pearl and diamond sautoir, J.E. Caldwell,
Sold for US$ 39,040 inc. premium
Auction Details
Fine Jewellery New York
15 Jun 2011 12:00 EDT

Auction 19241
A belle époque pearl and diamond sautoir, J.E. Caldwell, A belle époque pearl and diamond sautoir, J.E. Caldwell,
Lot Details
Property from various owners
A belle époque pearl and diamond sautoir, J.E. Caldwell, circa 1910
the woven seed pearl necklace centering a lozenge-shaped panel of old European-cut diamonds in a foliate motif suspending an asymmetrical pendant each with terminals of pear-shaped diamonds within diamond foliate borders; signed J.E.C. & Co, no. F3699; mounted in platinum; length: 18in. (pearls untested)

Footnotes

  • The esteemed American jeweler, James Emmott Caldwell, originally a watch maker from Poughkeepsie, New York, began his career by supplying wealthy Philadelphians with stylish European jewelry, objets d'art, and silver. Known for its belle époque, art nouveau and art deco jewelry, JE Caldwell and Co. became the official name of the firm in 1868 after a number of changed locations and owners. They began to create hand fabricated jewelry and beautiful gem-set pieces towards the end of the nineteenth century and became known for the quality and beauty of their jewelry. They produced some of the finest examples of American belle époque and art nouveau jewelry, recognized for finely chased surfaces, unusual gemstones as well as typical motifs of the times. In the 1920s, their art deco pieces were noted for the excellence and allure that distinguished J.E.Caldwell & Co.

    Sautoir, meaning "rope" in French, is a long necklace often decorated with ornaments, tassels or pendants at the end. Initially this style was in the form a long strands of pearls, which with the compliment of a jeweled pearl and diamond dog collar, was fashionable during the belle époque period from 1901-1910. This first decade saw a dramatic change in style, the revealing décolleté and corseted silhouette emerged as androgynous free fitting elongated form. To accommodate this change, the single strand pearl sautoirs widened, and were characterized by a luxurious elegant and delicate fabric of woven pearls and diamonds. J.E. Caldwell was known for making some of the best examples of this design as illustrated in this lot.
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