An art deco diamond bracelet, French,
Lot 43
An art deco diamond bracelet, French,
Sold for US$ 91,500 inc. premium
Auction Details
Fine Jewellery New York
11 Apr 2011 14:00 EDT

Auction 19126
Lot Details
Property from various owners
An art deco diamond bracelet, French, circa 1920
the openwork strap bracelet designed as a series of scrolling old European-cut diamond flowers, millegrain setting; with black velvet strap to wear as a choker; with French assay marks and maker's marks, with fitted box; estimated total diamond weight: 40.00 carats; mounted in platinum; bracelet length: 7 1/2in, with choker: 13 1/4in.

Footnotes

  • Wide diamond or 'band' bracelets came into fashion in the early 1920s. This popular style started with an 'all white' background, the dominant color of the belle époque jewels at the beginning of the 20th century. Concurrent with this white or colorless combination, was the use of bows, swags, laurel and wreath motifs, and the overall construction of the jewelry was light and airy. By the end of World War I, the designs and motifs in jewelry had morphed into elongated, stylized and flattened floral forms. These rather monochromatic jewels were more robust and less ethereal, and also defined most often by a wide band of repetitive motifs.

    In 1920, Paris was the hotbed of creation. Jewels, textiles, furniture, carpets, and all the decorative arts had many crossover themes all fostered by the response to Cubist, Fauvist and Futurist art movements. Roses and stylized flower heads were one of the strongest recurring motifs found in these disciplines. The Atelier Martine produced large wool carpets and silvered commodes adorned with flowers, as did fabrics designed by André Mare, Robert Joubert and Philippe Petit. Similarly, the jewels of the early 1920s were decorated with flowers; the esteemed houses of Mauboussin and Van Cleef & Arpels produced several wide, long bracelets with flowerhead motifs. Women dressing for the evening wore these wide diamond bracelets as armlets, and in tandem with assorted numerous wide bracelets stacked on their wrists.

    Lot 43 exemplifies the beginning of the wide band style. It demonstrates a gentle repeating flower pattern set entirely in white diamonds, with thin millgraining to accent the design throughout. It is intended to be worn either as a loosely hanging bracelet or as a choker - as it is also accompanied by the original black velvet attachment for this purpose.

    The multi-purpose characteristics of the bracelet/choker were a popular choice for jewelers designing in the 1920s.
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