A ruby and diamond brooch, Van Cleef & Arpels, 1969
of floral design, centering a round brilliant-cut diamond cluster stamen within petals of invisibly-set rubies, completed by a baguette-cut diamond stem accentuated by pavé-set diamond petals; signed Van Cleef & Arpels, no. NY 40797; estimated total ruby weight: 19.30 carats; estimated total diamond weight: 3.15 carats; mounted in platinum; length: 2in.
Sold for
US$ 87,840
inc. premium
Footnotes
- Cf. Coffin, Sarah D., Set in Style, The Jewelry of Van Cleef & Arpels, Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Museum, New York, 2011, page 126, figure 22.
Van Cleef and Arpels Iconic Mystery Set or 'Serti Mysterieux'
was patented in 1933. This labor intensive technique
allowed the designer exceptional play with shapes and three
dimensional fluid designs.
Ruby was the prevalent gemstone used for the Mystery
Setting. There were new deposits of ruby discovered in
Burma in the 1930's, and Van Cleef had the pick of the
best, well matched color. Flowers and naturalistic designs
were the most the favored motifs. Sapphire was also used
and was a bold choice that made the pieces stand out and
grab attention, exactly the intention of the designers.
The term Mystery Set comes from the fact that each stone
is held together by invisible prongs, which are not seen
from the front. Each stone is incised with a groove, and is
then slid on the rails that hold all together in the back, to
form the design.
These monochromatic examples in ruby and sapphire
demonstrate a purity that showcases the design, as well as
the gemstones.
Lot heading
Property formally from the Estate of Helen Dow Whiting, and thence by decent to Mary Whiting of Blue Hill, Maine
Auction Notices
- Please note this piece was made by Oscar Heyman & Brothers for Van Cleef & Arpels
Category: Jewellery
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