An art deco diamond, gem-set and enamel bracelet, Mauboussin,
Lot 159
An art deco diamond, gem-set and enamel bracelet, Mauboussin,
Sold for US$ 146,000 inc. premium
Auction Details
Fine Jewellery New York
15 Dec 2010 12:00 EST

Auction 18413
An art deco diamond, gem-set and enamel bracelet, Mauboussin,
Lot Details
Property passed through the family by descent from a New Jersey estate (Lots 155-160)
An art deco diamond, gem-set and enamel bracelet, Mauboussin, French, circa 1930
designed as three lozenge-shaped panels centering carved sapphire and ruby leaves and an emerald bead, accentuated with old European and baguette-cut diamonds and black enamel detail, each with openwork oval-shaped spacers of baguette and old European-cut diamonds; signed Mauboussin, with French assay marks and maker's mark; estimated total diamond weight: 13.90 carats; mounted in platinum; length: 6 7/8in. (some loss to enamel)


    During the art deco period, the premier Parisian house of Mauboussin was
    busy catering to their international clientele by providing a wide range of
    exquisitely crafted designs. Early in the 1920's jewelry design was based
    on the pure paradigm of geometry, color contrast and stylization. These
    primary characteristics reflect the reaction from the Cubist, Fauve and
    Futurist art movements for structure, while form and decorative inspirations
    came from the Chinese, Russian, Persian and Indian cultures. Women's
    roles changed dramatically at the beginning of the century, embracing
    newly found freedom, brought on by war and advances in technology
    and industry. These fundamental influences were integrated into the fine,
    decorative and applied arts, expanding beyond the parameters of fashion,
    textiles, and architecture, infiltrating all aspects of society. Regaining
    opulence and wealth, society flourished, as did jewelry design which
    became a fertile environment for experimentation.
    Founded in 1827, Mauboussin opened their new workshop and retail
    store in 1923 on the rue de Choiseul in Paris, under the direction of
    Georges Mauboussin. During the first half of the 20th century, Mauboussin
    participated in all major exhibitions; and was awarded with the "Légion
    d'Honneur" in the 1925 Exposition des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels
    Modernes in Paris for his contributions to the world of joaillerie. As an
    innovative leader, Mauboussin organized three gemstone themed traveling
    exhibitions between 1928 and 1931. These events promoted and garnered
    recognition of their creative jewels set with ruby, emerald and diamond.
    During this time, Georges was joined by his son, Pierre, who brought a
    fresh new style to the firm
    Pierre Mauboussin was drawn to modernism, and his creations, unlike
    the early 1920's flattened interpretations became alive and threedimensional.
    By 1928, the sculptural elements and colorful textured
    gemstones were featured in vast number of creations by Mauboussin,
    which were often showcased on the female icons in Vogue. This
    "Tutti-Frutti" bracelet is a perfect example of this era. Indian inspired,
    Mauboussin opts for the colorful and textured carved fruit and berry
    clusters of sapphire, ruby and emerald. These colorful clusters center
    semi-cylindrical fields of colorless three dimensional texture expressed
    with circular and baguette-cut diamonds, accented with horizontal
    bands of black enamel, contrasted by alternating links of flat colorless
    diamond oval cutout links suggestive of negative space. This design
    is patterned with color, texture, and elevation; it is sculptural and
    seductive, melding cultural inspiration with artistic prowess, indicative
    of the signature style of Mauboussin.

Saleroom notices

  • Please see attached certificate stating the bracelet is numbered 792 and was made in October 1929.
  1. Jewelry (US)
    Auction Administration - Jewelry
    Work +1 212 461 6519
    FaxFax: +1 212 644 9007