An art nouveau eighteen karat gold and enamel brooch/pendant, Vever,
An art nouveau eighteen karat gold and enamel brooch/pendant, Vever, French, circa 1900
centering a maiden swinging on a branch, among a background of blue and green plique-à-jour enamel, suspended from a (later) fourteen karat gold chain; signed Vever, no. 2309, with French assay mark and maker's mark; length of necklace: 29in. (heavy damage to enamel)
Sold for US$ 18,300 inc. premium

Footnotes

  • This pendant depicts the Greek goddess Artemis; protector of the wilderness,
    hunting, wild animals, childbirth and the girl child to the age of marriage.
    Spirited and independent, she is posed with her bow, arrows, and quiver in
    a mythical landscape. Interestingly this theme pays homage to that of the
    changing role of women in society near the turn of the century.

    Some of the finest French art nouveau jewelry was made by the house of
    Vever. In 1821, Pierre Vever opened his shop in Metz, France. Business
    flourished as they acquired notable clientele from the surrounding
    provinces and other countries. In 1848, the business was handed down
    to Ernest Vever, Pierre's son. Like his father before him, Ernest continued
    to employ the most skilled craftsman to produce notable jewels with
    an emphasis on ancient revival styles. In 1871 the family relocated to
    Paris, purchasing the firm of Bangrand at 19, rue de la Paix. Ernest Vever
    exhibited at, and was a member of the jury for the 1878 Exposition
    Universelle. While an apprentice, Ernest's son Henri, an excellent artist and
    craftsman, studied at L'Ecole des Art Décoratifs and Ecole des Beaux-Art.

    In 1881, Henri and his brother Paul assumed control of Maison Vever. Much
    of their jewelry was constructed of gold, accented with precious stones and
    decorated with enamel. These Art Nouveau creations featured sensuous
    female forms, flora, fauna, and mystical creatures. In addition to the works
    designed by themselves, Henri and Paul worked with many other Parisian
    designers and manufacturers including René Lalique, Léopold Gautrait and
    Eugène Grasset.

    Recognized for excellence, Vever received many accolades including a
    grand prix at the 1889 Exposition Universalle, 1897 Brussels International
    Exhibition, 1900 Exposition Universalle. Paul Vever died in 1915, and Henri
    assumed sole control of the family business until he retired in 1921.
    Henri Vever, an avid historian, wrote an extraordinarily comprehensive
    compendium documenting the history of French jewelry in the 19th
    century. He included sketches, photographs and discussions of works by
    well known and more obscure jewelers of the era, as well as fashion and
    technical information. Vever was a passionate collector of fine European,
    Japanese and Islamic art. Many of these foreign cultural sensibilities served
    as an inspiration and are represented in his creative jewelry design.

Lot heading

Property formerly from the Estate of Virginia Mellon

Category: Jewellery


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