A fine art deco onyx, coral, enamel and diamond penannular brooch, by Cartier,
Lot 149Y
A fine art deco onyx, coral, enamel and diamond penannular brooch, by Cartier,
Sold for £45,600 (US$ 76,283) inc. premium
Auction Details
Lot Details
A fine art deco onyx, coral, enamel and diamond penannular brooch, by Cartier, circa 1925
The open ended ridged coral hoop with enamel and single-cut diamond detail, terminating in a carved onyx bead each inlaid with a brilliant-cut diamond, to a cylindrical pin head set with single-cut diamonds in a cross formation with enamel detail, the later cone-shaped pin guard decorated with black enamel, signed Cartier and numbered, length 6.2cm.

Footnotes

  • Cartier unveiled jewels with daring colour combinations in 1925 at the Paris Exhibition. The most original and pronounced assortment, of which this brooch is a fine example, juxtaposed carved coral with diamonds and onyx. Some pieces additionally included emeralds. Previous years had seen simpler combinations, such as diamonds with onyx, sometimes with a hint of colour. Never before had such strongly contrasting colours been combined and expressed in a single piece of jewellery. The penannular brooch was a revival of the Iron Age Celtic design. Cartier redesigned it slightly by opening the ring, and using the sliding pin with bayonet clasp.

    See Bonhams catalogue of Fine Jewellery, London, 24 April 2008, lot 147, for a penannular brooch, by Cartier, in similar taste. See also, Rudoe, Judy 'Cartier 1900-1939', British Museum London, 1997, pp 208-210, Gabardi, Melissa 'Art Deco Jewellery 1920-1949', Antique Collectors Club, 1989, pp 77-90, for further information.
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